Summary: Doo.Ri’s Fall ’12 collection is a soft mix of futuristic and demure, featuring draping techniques reminiscent of militaristic armor set in lush, flowing fabrics that are utterly feminine. There’s a simple beauty to this collection that resonates in the details. It wasn’t until the seventh look that any color was brought onto the runway, and even then, it wasn’t until the tenth that shades left neutral and gray scales and moved into more vibrant hues. While the collection’s palette is subdued, its finesse with drapery, building asymmetry and mixing textiles is not.
When it comes to shape, fashion has hit an “anything goes” moment. Leggings and variations on the skinny pant have remained, the harem has morphed in various incarnations, becoming a look that is loosely reinterpreted season after season, and proportions are generally welcome to run the gamut. In light of this, Doo.Ri’s exploration of mixed fabrics — knit sleeves on a slinky jersey jumpsuit, a knit vest sewn into a blouse with parachute sleeves — is refreshing in its reinvention of mixed visuals and experimentation with texture.
Although some of the lackluster shades in the color palette flattened the inventiveness of her styling and drapery, Doo.Ri’s intentionality was completely on point in this collection. She noted her inspiration as “elegant haunting movement of Buton. Poetic motion.” She sited elegance, ease, tactile, enveloped, languid, sensual and fluid as points of reference for both the collection and its proportions. Her ability to make fabric move against the body gives provocative power to her clothing and designs. Doo.Ri is both poignant and intuitive — there is an intellect to her work that makes you feel as if you’ve been let in on a secret. A secret to which I, for one, am happy to be privy.
Colors: Bone, ice grey, beige, iridescent, black, white, charcoal, diamond, pale pink, plum, hunter green, chocolate, ink, ivory, ochre, rich brass
Fabrics and Textures: Bonded jersey, parachute silk, slinky jersey, shearling, washed silk, virgin wools, felted suiting, bonded leather, suede, knit, cashmere, waffle stitching, laser cutting, flannel, draping, neoprene, wraping, mohair, mesh, leather, slouch, ruffles, beading, embroidering.
Key Looks: Bone layered shearling jacket, bone washed silk long sleeve slouchy dress; Black and white draped chunky waffle stitch sweater, and bone stretched suiting high-waisted tapered trouser; Hunter green jersey draped back turtleneck and hunter green leather high-waisted tapered trouser.
— Amanda Aldinger
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