Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Ruffian Goes to Plaid

February 11, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: The Ruffian woman is more of a trend setter than a follower. She dresses according to her mood and her desires, rather than for shock value or because it’s the “of the moment” look. And in past seasons, I’ve felt that designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais stayed true to this image that they themselves had created. But for Fall ’12, I have to say that I was pretty underwhelmed by the wares they trotted out. Built under a vague and cryptic theme of duality, with a dash of English estates thrown in for good measure, most of  the collection was just an amalgamation of blah. As if the very definition of fall fashion just stepped out onto the runway- Plaid, wool, flannel, grey, brown, dark blue. The end did offer up some punchy shots of color for good measure, but even those shapes (sheath dresses, button down coats, cropped jackets) were trite and resonated with having been done. No exquisite detail stood out, no slightly off-kilter touch made the apparel anything we haven’t seen a million times before.

However, outside of the clothes, the beauty and accessories left a lasting impression. First the fedoras that many of the models wore were glossy and sumptuous enough to eat. In burnt orange, fuschia and deep blue, I was ready to snatch them off the runway and work them into my spring wardrobe. They were the show stealers of the otherwise blase looks, as were the models’ pouts which were painted in an exclusive sizzling shade from MAC called Ruffian Red. But the “hands down” coolest part of the collection was the models’ nails. Having been privileged enough to peek backstage, I knew that MAC had also created the nail look which consisted of velvet press-ons in jewel-toned red, purple and blue. I mean, if you have velvet nails coming down the runway it may be tough to concentrate on the clothes in the best of times. So with all the predictable plaid and humdrum herringbone that was included in the show, it was not surprising that the nails were what everyone came away dishing about.

Color Palette: shadow, nude, olive, red, charcoal, black, purple, grey, storm blue, lapis blue, pink topaz, ivory, plaid, herringbone

Fabrics and Textures: wool, silk georgette, wool twill, lambskin, corduroy, wool melton, lambswool, silk velvet, cashmere, boucle, lambswool flannel, cashmere knit, Prince of Wales wool

Key Looks: Lennox Torsette in Bronze Lambskin, Wide Leg Trouser in Charcoal Corduroy, Field Coat in Olive Wool Twill, Julia Coat in Blue/Grey Wool Melton, Cambridge Sheath in Lapis Blue Lambswool, Diana Skirt in Black Lambskin, Thompson Coat in Black Cashmere

-Alia Rajput

Photos: NYMag

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