Summary: I would bet any amount of many that at least one person checked the program to make sure they were at the right show, once Tibi’s Fall ’12 collection began. Having so long been a party the candy-colored party dress crew with Nanette, Milly and Cynthia, Tibi’s redefined look was a bit of a surprise to say the least. But a pleasant one. Designer Amy Smilovic has been retooling her brand for some time and it seems the proof is now finally in the pudding. A muted and minimalist palette of mostly black and white laid the groundwork for structured and over-sized jackets, pants and sweaters.
Smilovic definitely seemed to peer through a menswear-tinted lens in creating the silhouettes, which were sparse, nipped in and tailored. Almost to the point of being boxy at times. The few patterns included a black and white plaid and an elegant origami-like bird print that flew across a landscape of blouses, dresses, and skirts. But perhaps the coolest and most memorable feature of the collection was the rubbery neoprene fabric that Smilovic fashioned pencil skirts, coats and dresses out of. The fabric provided the few shots of color including dark teal and burgundy. While I enjoyed this departure from playful to sophisticated, I wouldn’t want Smilovic to veer to far off the road she paved. Perhaps for Spring ’13 we can bring back a little more print and color. It is Tibi, after all!
Color Palette: black, white, gray, teal, burgundy, plaid, bird print
Fabrics and Textures: wool, cotton, knit, neoprene, silk crepe, tweed, leather
Key Looks: Mod patterned boatneck sweater, White over-sized wool blazer, Burgundy neoprene pencil skirt, Black leather trench, Graphic print dress, Plaid cropped trousers
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