Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Jill Stuart Plays With Darkness

February 11, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: Jill Stuart embraced a darker moment, with a collection primarily founded in black and some cream — accented only by the hints of color found in her floral patterns. Although the prints were expected and in line with Stuart’s aesthetic, the pieces that truly stood out the most were those that were monochromatic in color. Black dresses found detail in sheer paneling and gold metallic embellishments, a long sleeve, full-length black jumpsuit awed in its graceful, flowing movement and command of the space. There was chic austerity in tailored jackets paired with tall patent leather boots and the collection’s signature accessory: a gorgeous fur hat tied around the neck and worn at the base of the neck.

In comparison to strength of these pieces, her printed dresses seemed more youthful, less glamorous. This is where quintessential Stuart femininity came into play — a pleasant departure in its darker tones — but these looks did not resonant as strongly as the more glam pieces. When she did employ color — looks in monochromatic plum and eggplant especially delighted — the hues were rich and vibrant, conveying fall without seeming routine, or tired. All in all, this is a strong collection — particularly at the beginning and end.

Colors: Black, grey, white, beige, cream, red, dusted rose, maroon, plum, eggplant, chocolate brown, pale green, evening blue, orange, violet, cerulean, fuchsia, gold

Fabrics and Textures: chiffon, jersey, silk, cotton, silk crepe, faille, wool, leather, metallic

Key Looks: Sleeveless sheer dress with black paneling and gold metallic embellishments in swirling and geometric patterns; Black cocktail dress with a pleated taffeta skirt, a peter pan collar and black paneling across the front; Long-sleeved cream dress with flower appliques.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NYMag


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