New York Fashion Week Fall ’12. Christian Siriano Subdues and Streamlines

February 11, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12



Summary: Christian Siriano‘s Fall collection was an interesting follow-up to a recent New York Times article about his thoughts on the industry not taking him seriously. Clearly the “fierce” designer from Project Runway (one of the show’s most acclaimed alum, and certainly the most successful) is working hard to subdue his image and streamline into the mainstream.

For fall, Siriano did just that. Gone were the days of exaggerated ball gowns, buckets of tulle, and the glorified extravagance that many had come to both rely on and love. Instead, these iconic Siriano designs were replaced with body-hugging evening gowns, demure, clean-lined silhouettes, and a color palette that rarely left the grey scale. He did not totally deviate from his signature looks: elements of tulle provided moments of volume (not grandiose, but yes, voluminous), and a few of his cocktail dresses boasted oversized bell sleeves, which provided welcome movement amongst his many sleek looks. In my opinion, the standout moment of this collection — the approach to design that I was anticipating when I sat down for the show — was a gorgeous, tailored black jumpsuit paired with an outrageously large, and completely magnificent, grey fur stole that draped across the front of the body.

I understand his desire to make his designs more palatable for the masses. He is young, and to maintain longevity in this industry one must think about the business aspects of fashion. (Oh, if we could all be  Christian Lacroix, who has willingly produced incredible designs for decades without turning a profit!) But there is a reason that we have come to love Christian Siriano and the signature exuberance he has applied to his designs. I was told before I headed over to Eyebeam Studios that I should be excited to see my first Christian Siriano show, because they are always so much fun. Instead, I was sad to have missed the excitement of some of his more energetic collections. Every designer has free reign to explore themselves through their work, and to experiment with new approaches each season. Here’s hoping Siriano remembers why he became the fashion world’s darling in the first place and doesn’t try too hard to turn himself into something he’s not. I’m looking forward to seeing what happens next Spring.

Colors: Grey, black, burgundy, gold, red.

Fabrics and Textures: Leather, chiffon, sheer, pleating, prints, tulle, satin, fur, python.

Key Looks: Black, long-sleeved turtle neck ankle-length jumpsuit with an oversized grey fur style draped asymmetrically across the body; Black cape dress with exaggerated bell sleeves; Black leather halter-top gown with a floor-length voluminous chiffon skirt; Long-sleeved floor-length evening gown with a sheer bodice and feather detailing.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NYMag

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