Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Zac Posen’s Imperial Dynasty

February 12, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: You have not done New York Fashion Week until you’ve gone to a Zac Posen show. At least, that’s my new reasoning now that I’ve actually attended one. True to his breathtaking pieces, his show is as opulent and luxurious as one would imagine, Held in the David Koch theater where the New York City Ballet performs, the venue was right next to the Lincoln Center tents yet seemed worlds away. Compared to the hustle and bustle of the other shows taking place that night, the Koch theater was dimly lit, quiet and oh so civilized. The show took place on the mezzanine level with the marble runway flanked by two giant ivory sculptures keeping sentinel over the fashionable crowd. Guests mingled and chatted quietly, there was no scramble for a seat, no pushing and shoving, and none of the general unpleasantness that can take place among the exhausted throngs everywhere else.

Once the show started it was clear that this was going to be a treat. Right off the bat a decadently Asian-inspired vibe thread it’s way through fiery red silk faille separates. The models’ hair was done up in a tight bun with little sprays of hair coming out in an imperial sweep. Bright crimson lips punctuated the ruby reds, sapphire blues and emerald greens that made up the opening looks. Sumptuous jacquard, silk twill and wool crepe carved out peplum jackets, pencil skirts and draped dresses. Half way through I was dying from the sheer stateliness of the pieces, and the gowns hadn’t even begun yet. Posen’s Orient homage continued in more literal forms such as kimono sleeves, intricate origami folds and the occasional printed obi belt. But even in theme, he found his own aesthetic. For a designer so well known for his architecture, the origami folding and draping seemed to be a seamless and natural fit.

Once the gowns began there was no turning back. Bustier dresses ivory, alabaster and feather grey duchess satin cascaded down the body, splashing into a full trumpet skirt at the knee. The fabric moved like liquid down the gleaming marble tile work. Many of the gowns were bustled in back, another nod to traditional kimono fashion, so they were as dazzling going as they were coming. The final look, a showstopping black and imperial blue jacquard ball gown was slowly presented by model of the moment Coco Rocha who walked as slowly and regally as the dress commanded. It was an honor to bear witness to one of the game changers of high fashion today. And now that I’ve glimpsed his world, I never want to return to a life without Zac.

Color Palette: Tokyo Red, Imperial Blue, Black Peony, Black, Opium Red, Teal, Lily Green, Violet Blue, Emerald Green, Caspian Blue, Kimono Print, Slate, Fawn, Alabaster, Feather Grey, Ivory, Pastel, Orchid, Peacock, Floral

Fabrics and Textures: jacquard, silk faille, tweed, wool crepe, wool, chiffon, silk, silk twill, patent leather, draped wool, linear jacquard, paper taffeta, glass bead embroidered, felted wool, chiffon, silk organza, satin, duchess satin, anatomic seamed, floral embroidered, architectural seamed

Key Looks: Tokyo Red Silk Faille Folded Lapel Jacket, Tokyo Red Silk Faille Pencil Skirt, Imperial Blue Wool Coat, Lily Green Wool Crepe Anatomic Seamed Dress, Imperial Blue Kiko Chiffon Blouse, Emerald Green Silk Twill Trench, Kimono Print Obi Belt, Ivory Silk Faille Architectural Evening Coat, Orchid Silk Faille and Duchess Satin Gown, Imperial Blue Silk Faille Origami Gown, Feather Silk Architectural Seamed, Imperial Blue and Black Ottoman Jacquard Bustier Gown

-Alia Rajput


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