Summary: Last season, Tara Subkoff staged her Imitation of Christ presentation as a part of a wedding — a real wedding — for Lydia Hurst. This season, she went a bit more demure, with an elegant presentation at the Budakkan in Chelsea, replete with berry-infused champagne and a room filled with a mix of slicked back hair and the teased frizz homage to the 1920′s flapper that has become a popular trend so far this week.
Although the setting may have been more refined, this didn’t mean that Subkoff was going to let her models off easy. Throughout the presentation, a magician appeared on stage for a live magic show, involving the models in his hijinks while he made live doves appear, or put a woman into a box that he penetrated with shards of glass.
This was all very delightful, and I actually quite enjoyed watching the magic show, but it did not thematically work with Subkoff’s clothing, nor did it detract from a collection that was not particularly elegant (there was a recurring use of pinstripes in outfits that aimed to employ a more seductive approach to women’s suits and businesswear), nor luxe in fabric choices. Bralet halters and itsy-bitsy shirts tied into a sweetheart neckline had a fun appeal, and a black dress with cap sleeves and a gold dot pattern was a standout look for its glamour and ’20s inspiration. Other than that, the collection could have been more cohesive, with a stronger point of view. Regardless, the presentation was great fun and you can never go wrong with a live magic show. She gets big points for creativity in that respect.
Colors: Navy blue, black, white, indigo, pale blue, butter yellow, red, gold
Fabrics and Textures: Satin, pinstripes, cotton, wool, jersey, prints, silk jersey, stretch satin, georgette
Key Looks: One shouldered white button-up shirt with high-waisted black satin A-line skirt with a large side slit; Black satin cape over a white ruffled skirt; Nude bralet with black corsetted boning and black ruffled skirt.
— Amanda Aldinger