Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Donna Karan: Perfectly Well Suited

February 13, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: Since Donna Karan defines a woman as someone who carries the weight of the world on her shoulders, it was no surprise she showed a great amount of menswear suiting with…big shoulders. She also balanced the the other side of a woman’s femininity and sensuality with beautifully seductive sequins and gowns. The ying and yang to this collection not only provided a great show, but a very wearable collection. Almost every look (for day and night) Karan topped every model with a Stephen Jones mini fedoras. What I really want to talk about here though is the menswear which in my opinion was some of the most beautifully crafted and executed not to mention feminine and flattering menswear collections I have seen in recent years. It was more than just blazers and Pinstripes. The draping, folds and seeming were truly awe-inspiring. I was literally drooling and would love to wear any of the suits I saw. I particularly loved the feminine details like a bustier here or a pleat there that just oozed confidence. Much of the evening wear even had suiting details like cummerbunds or a crisp white tuxedo shirt with a long skit or a sequined coat dress.

I particularly appreciated her exaggerated shoulders which looked more 30’s than 80’s (thankfully) and Karan without a doubt had the best red on the runway this fall which was brilliantly executed in a scarlet haircalf redingote car coat that I guarantee will fly out of stores and should be on every buyer’s short list, it’s that amazing. As soon as I got home I called my mother (who has recently rediscovered Donna) to tell her that she is going to not only love Karan’s suits next fall, but also some of the evening wear. This collection screamed my mother’s style aesthetic, but since the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, mine too. And I’m always willing to accept some of her cast-offs!

Color Palette: ivory, scarlet, ink, dark navy, brass, tobac, flint, charcoal, anthracite, black

Fabrics & Textures: jersey, silk chiffon, silk crepe, wool/viscose, silk/viscose, stretch taffeta, stretch wool/mohair, metallic chiffon, wool gauze, lurex, stretch wool crepe, viscose crepe satin, Persian shearling, sueded cotton moleskin, wool felt, pinstripes, pleats, embroidery, sequins, Stephen Jones mini fedoras

Key Looks: charcoal/black pinstripe bustier dress; anthracite pinstripe body jacket with matching stretch pants; scarlet haircalf redingote; brass stretch wool double crepe and wool/viscose jersey dress; black stretch wool felt jacket with black wool felt and silk chiffon embroidered wrap skirt; dark navy stretch wool double crepe jacket; black sequin and viscose crepe cubist bustier evening dress; scarlet stretch viscose crepe satin evening dress

– Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NYMag




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