Summary: A simple quote from Don Macpherson’s “Leading Ladies” sets the tone for the Fall/Winter 2012 collection of Jenny Packham. “She was almost always bewitchingly glamourous, slow to befriend and swift to betray, a haunting and often malevolently dangerous vision which could lure a man to his doom, or bring him to despair,” says more about this show than can be said.
The collection definitely reflects the mood of ‘Film Noir”, a genre of film in the early 1940’s that was characterized by the dark mood lighting and even darker morals. This collection showed a definite shift in Packham’s aesthetic. While the designer usually goes for a lighter and softer color palette with more of a focus on the beading, this collection was definitely more about the structure and personality of the dresses themselves.
There was also more of a metallic palette of what has been seen of Packham’s past runway shows. Flowing chiffons and plunging necklines added with a sleeker silhouette and figure hugging forms added to the drama of the collection as a whole. This was a great step in the right direction for Packham. Though her dresses are beautiful, she had seemingly gotten stuck in a rut for creating cutesy dresses. Now, she’s grown up and moved on to sexy. I think that’s something we can all get behind.
Color Palette: deep red, crystal, black, jet, cream, tonal, gold, pale grey, pale blue, oat, pale pink, silver, gun metal
Fabrics & Textures: silk crepe, metallic, silk, crepe, satin, crystal beading, chiffon, sequins, tulle, stud beading
Key Looks: Black crepe and satin gros grain with jumpsuit jet crystal motif; Long gold beaded dress with asymmetric oat crepe drape and gros grain waistband; Long sleeved silver beaded dress with crystal covered neckline
– Taneisha Jordan
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