Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Narciso Rodriguez: (Once Again) Proves Less is More

February 14, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: To know me is to know I adore Narciso Rodriguez and consider him one of the finest American designers of our time. So clearly this is going to be a rave review…especially since this was my favorite collection of his thus far. What I appreciate about his aesthetic is his ability to expertly mix geometry with minimalism that compliments a woman’s body. Rather like what one expects from Calvin Klein, except dare I say…less boring. Season after season Narciso (yes, I feel I am on a first name basis with him at this point) finds new ways to create collections that are varied, yet are still so clearly his. I didn’t think he could get much better, but not only did he outdo himself with this collection, he also had to introduce his new shoe and handbag collection. Great, now I have more of Narciso to obsess about! The bags and shoes were mixed materials like ostrich, suede and leather in the same geometric way he crafts his apparel. As for the collection itself, the designer patchworked his designs in a warm fall color palette to great success. Aside from the accessories, the coats Narciso presented were spellbinding. Especially the first chartreuse coat to come down the runway. Even though it had volume, it still worked. Later in the collection he showed a similar coat in black, and I’d gladly take either. Then again, I would not turn down the color blocked beaver coat either! It was genius.

The other major success in Narciso’s Fall ’12 collection was the array of shiny silk and matte wool spliced dresses in colors like chartreuse and tangerine. Another favorite was the wool angora tweed mixed with flannel and perfectly draped bustier which was paired with a simple pleated menswear grey trouser. The final looks consisted of silk bias cut skirts with trains that literally floated down the runway. His pantsuits were also brilliant, especially the ones that looked like leather, but weren’t (coated cotton mixed with flannel). And once again, let’s not forget about the new accessories! I simply MUST own a pair of Narciso’s black strappy d’Orsay pumps with ecru leather and a grey suede cap-toe and any of the boots which are just too hard to describe to do any justice. As a coveter of bags, I can now forget about the Celine bag I’ve been dreaming of since I’ve replaced my number one bag of choice with Narciso’s 03 bag in black calf or the 05 version with ostrich. Heck, I’d even take a pair of the black leather gloves with a white strip of leather!

As always, I was sad when the show was over. If I couldn’t celebrate a Valentine’s dinner with my husband, I was certainly happy to spend it at the opera with my other man…Narciso.

Color Palette: white, ecru, chartreuse, loden, olive, tangerine, brick, cognac, russet, chestnut, dark brown, silver, dark navy, graphite, petrol, black

Fabrics & Textures: silk, silk crepe, laminated silk, cotton, coated cotton, flannel, wool, bonded wool, wool felt, wool angora, tweed, napa leather, beaver, lace, embroidery, suede boots, alligator, ostrich & leather bags,

Key Looks: chartreuse bonded wool coat; brick/wool silk crepe dress; russet bonded wool coat; russet chirimen silk and brick silk dress; russet bonded wool jacket with a brick silk top and black coated cotton/loden flannel pant; petrol textured napa and flannel jacket with a black laminated silk top and graphite wool/cotton trousers; loden and petrol wool felt coat; wool angora tweed and flannel bustier with graphite wool/cotton trousers; silver wool/cotton dress; ecru/chestnut beaver coat; black wool felt coat; tangerine/brick laminated silk top with a tangerine silk bias skirt.

–Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: NYMag

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