On the morning of one of the final days of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, I found myself standing in a human tornado of activity, filled with hairspray, brushes, curling irons, makeup wands and any kind of beauty paraphernalia one could imagine, And it wasn’t even 9 a.m. In the middle of the fray, a calm Tom Pecheux for MAC cosmetics carefully applied a dark maroon lip to a model and spoke to us on the look he created.
He told us in his rich French accent that the look was meant to be “pretty crazy, pretty dramatic, but fun.” He said he wouldn’t call it sophisticated because the look contained a very heavy eye look with tons of mascara. The inspiration was a combination of Fritz Lang’s 1920’s era film “Metropolis” combined with a Tim Burton-like fantasy. Clearly Pecheux wanted the lids and the lips to really pop. He started with pale, matte finish skin. He then applied burgundy/black eye shadow from the top lashes all the way up to the brow bone. Pecheux created a kind of ombre effect, making the color most intense close to the lashes and then fading as it went up to the eyebrow. Under the lower lash line, he swept a very strong stripe of gold metallic liner and coated both upper and lower lashes with black mascara. For the lips, he chose a deep burgundy lipstick with a matte finish, to stand out dramatically against the pale pallor of the skin. He put nothing in the way of color on the cheeks. He said he wanted it almost to look like the face was black and white, but with a small, subtle hint of color in the purplish-red tones. The look was indeed very dramatic up close but we knew it would create the perfect pop under the stage lights on the runway.
Next we squeezed ourselves over to Morooccanoil’s hair station and spoke to key stylist Peter Gray on what looked like a very complicated creation. Gray reiterated the “Metropolis” theme in the collection and noted that the clothes channeled the light, angles and geometry of the city scapes that make up the movie. To counteract the structured silhouettes, Gray wanted to create a softer, ethereal style that would be appear to be literally floating around the head. “These beautiful styles look almost as if they’re breathing and moving as the models walk. For contrast we created a smooth, elegant, glamorous wave shape in the front that flows back into a big fluffy mass.”
To obtain the look, Gray used only one Moroccanoil product: the new Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray. “Though highly textured and matte, the hair itself had to stay healthy-looking and flexible. This has amazing hold and reduces frizz so it was all we really needed for the whole look to stay in place,” Gray noted. The hair was brushed out and separated into sections. Each section was sprayed with Moroocanoil Luminous Hairspray and then wrapped around one of three different sized curling irons (3/8″, 1/2″, and 5/8″). Once the hair was curled it was then pinned to the head through its center to assure the most grip at the scalp. Once the hair was completely set, Gray sprayed the whole head with Luminous Hairspray again and used the Morrocanoil Ionic Ceramic Hairdryer with a diffuser sock (an actual sock!) to heat set them. After 5 minutes, they were set into a perfect spring formation.
The models kept their complicated arrangement of hair pins until right before the runway. Just before the show began, Gray unpinned the curls and brushed them out, starting at the back and working his way forward. He also backcombed random sections of hair and sprayed more Luminous Hairspray once he had achieved the correct shape in back. For the final look in the front, Gray combed and smoothed down the hair shaped what he called an “undulating form” with his fingers. After more hairspray, he then blended the front wave into the back fluffiness and sprayed it one last time to secure the look together. The end result was an impressively intricate style that coincided perfectly with the drama of the makeup and clothes.
Photo Source: Second City Style
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Tags: backstage beauty, Badgley Mischka, beauty, MAC Cosmetics, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall '12, Moroccanoil, Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray, New York Fashion Week, Peter Gray, Tom Pecheux