Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Emerson Looks Back on 1940s Germany.

February 15, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: For Fall, Emerson designer Jackie Fraser-Swan was “inspired by an antique art piece that incorporated an image of a porcelain doll, known as the ‘Dresden Dolls’ which originated from Desden, Germany…” This was parlayed into Germany’s devastation during WWII, especially the role of women and their involvement in the army throughout the 1940s.

There is a subversive tone to this collection that aligns itself well with Fraser-Swan’s inspiration. A very dark, mostly black, collection, there are glimmers of seduction amidst tailored blazers and trousers: lace bodices, high slits and sheer ruffled fabrics embrace femininity while showcasing the shape of the female body. Not too risque, there is a chic playfulness in a sheer printed top and ruffled bandeau bra. A sheer black ruffled cardigan and skirt is paired with a high-cut black bodysuit — the look is elongated in a maxi skirt, with a hint of lace peeking out from the top of a black blazer.

There is a gothic tone to this collection that embraces the darkness of its inspiration, but an array of fabrics and textures (especially the hints of plum leather) keep the collection fresh and not too morose. Fraser-Swan is adept with details, pops of which were a pleasant surprise throughout.

Colors: Lime, black, white, plum, green, eggplant, plum, metallic champagne.

Fabrics and Textures: Sheer, knit, ruffles, gathering, ombre, wool, faux fur, brick prints, neoprene, lace, houndstooth, gathering, denim, floral prints, asymmetry, ultrasuede, silk, faux fur, pleating.

Key Looks: Ombre wool poncho, lace slip maxi skirt; Abstract print chiffon cape, lace slip, abstract print chiffon slip; Metallic champagne lace bomber jacket, eggplant wool trousers.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NYMag

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