Isn’t it just like fashion month to shake the very foundation of the industry and start a crazy game of designer musical chairs? That seems to be what’s currently going on overseas as each day holds a new announcement of someone stepping down and someone stepping (back) up. The two most newsworthy names in the revolving door are Stefano Pilati and Jil Sander. Pilati recently announced that he will be leaving his post as creative director for Yves Saint Laurent, following the house’s Fall ’12 show on March 5th. Reviews both in and outside of the industry have been mixed on Pilati’s tenure at YSL, with even the founding designer himself having said, “Some of what he does is good.”Rumors have also been afloat for years that Pilati had fallen out of favor with the former YSL executive Pierre Bergé, so his departure does not come as too much of a surprise. Of course now that Pilati has one foot out the door, everyone has come around singing his praises (that’s the fashion world for you). But what does Pilati himself have to say for his own accomplishments?
“[I am] incredibly proud of what I have accomplished with my teams over the past decade at Saint Laurent … I exit the house with fierce conviction in all that we have achieved and deep gratitude to those who have supported me along the way … I wish the maison Yves Saint Laurent and its new creative director the very best for the future.”
Isn’t that nice? Perhaps he and Raf Simons will team up and start their own line, as specualtions swirls that Pilati’s predecessor, Hedi Silamane, will return to YSL. And speaking of triumphant returns, longtime designer Jil Sander has returned to the label that bears her name. Simons, who helped Sander’s label since 2005, had his own swan song a couple weeks back, closely followed by Sander’s imminent return. Sander has not been designing for the Jil Sander aesthetic for over 8 years, yet she seems none too phased by getting right back in the saddle (she founded the line in 1968 after all, so she has been doing this for awhile.) Her confidence in her prowess was explained eloquently to WWD in a recent interview about her return.
“I do have strong convictions which evolved but never radically changed over time. I never tried to be provocative, but I never indulged in nostalgia, either. Fashion is experimentation, and if you keep the sophistication, it can also be eccentric. You have to break rules, if there is a good reason. And now is the right time to be daring, there are few new ideas.” She also said, “At the moment, there seems to be a craving for authenticity and clear visions. I am confident that this is the time for modern sophistication, for attractive, wearable fashion which is true to the new century”
Wow. If this whole design thing doesn’t turn out again, it seems she can always fall back on being a writer.
Article Source: NY Mag, WWD
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