Summary: There’s a wonderful understood consistency to Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra‘s design sensibility that has bred a body of work dedicated to patterns and a sense of movement that is familiar and similar in motif each season. Where this repetition of style could communicate artistic complacency (and does, with many designers), with Costello Tagliapietra it only resounds as a strength of vision – and a welcome one, at that. Although utilizing their signature AirDye print that has become the standard leitmotif for all Costello Tagliapietra collections, and a highly draped, almost Grecian-inspired approach to the shape of their long gowns and flowing cocktail dresses, this was a season rife with risks for the design team – rooted in a confidence of which they are well deserving. The AirDye-printed dresses were emblazoned in rich, bold colors, presenting a striking contrast to a collection heavily focused on beige and quiet pastels. In any other incarnation, much of their palette could be construed as dull – and, as a pale-skinned person, as many times as I thought, “I could never wear that color,” I was transfixed by the movement of each garment and the gorgeous draping that created rich, luxe texture, providing glamorous savoir-faire. This may, perhaps, be a strange element to focus on, but I fell in love with their detailing of shoulders and sleeves in this collection. I never wear anything sleeveless, and when so many dresses and gowns are designed sans sleeve, it can be difficult to find an elegant, chic dress that boldly emphasizes the shoulder and dares to cover up the arms. The gathered sleeve vermillion dress was an absolute knock-out – dramatic in its structure and presentation and a far cry from the smooth, liquid shapes that typically characterize the designer’s wares. Another favorite was the addition of long-sleeved, v-necked, belted robes – “smoking robes,” as I like to call them. There’s something at once both extremely elegant and very intimate about this garment, even though it does not showcase as much of the body as many other pieces in this collection. Ultimately, Costello Tagliapietra’s SS13 looks resonated with a subtle thoughtfulness that was both gentle and expressive, timeless and modern. Seductive, uncomplicated femininity at its very finest.
Colors: Blue, mauve, orange, beige, gold, sistine blue, scarlet, coral, vermillion, pale violet, rose, rose quartz, teal, pearl pink, olive
Fabrics and Textures: Gathering, ruching, camisole, draping, AirDye print, wrapping, cowling
Key Looks: AirDye teal dress coat; AirDye vermillion gathered shoulder dress; AirDye mayan blue solar strand print draped halter dress.
– Amanda Aldinger
Photos: Style.comSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40
Tags: AirDye, AirDye print, C&T, Costello Tagliapietra, Costello Tagliapietra RTW Spring '13, Costello Tagliapietra Spring '13 Collection, Costello Tagliapietra SS'13, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, New York Fashion Week Spring '13