Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring ’13: Chado Ralph Rucci’s Neon Trees.

September 9, 2012 • Fashion, Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring '13

 

Summary: Like in any industry,  fashion design always has it’s celebrated crop of rookie players who nab the headlines and the best celebrities at their shows. More often than not we hear about the Proenzas, the Wangs and the Rodartes who are changing the game with every collection. But how about the designers who’ve been mastering their craft for over thirty years? The ones who design for the designers? The ones who live under the radar of splashy media? Therein lies the realm of Chado Ralph Rucci, more conjurer of liveable art than mere designer. This season, with a new CEO and heavy chunk of change in investments, Ralph Rucci is proving that he’s still afloat in this same game he’s been playing for decades.

Always a fan of volume, meticulous construction, and sculptural silhouettes, Rucci added a fun new element to his Spring ’13 lineup: color. Swaths of yellow, orange, green and three different shades of pink took on such vibrancy in the pieces that they seemed to hum with electricity. Splices of sheer panels zig-zagged across neoprene coats, and chased each other around patent leather suits. Trapunto dresses exploded down the runway in tangerine, fuchsia and lemon yellow. And by the time, the texture began to show up in the form of feathers and frothy tulle, we were all breathless. The final looks, in true Rucci fashion, were ever the flair for the dramatic that Rucci has long been known for. Black bulging taffeta sleeves amped up a mesh and jersey gown, neon layers of a ballgown skirt peeked out like an upside down tulip. And a creamy stretch of fabric, Rucci’s eternal canvas captured his artful message: thirty years in the making and still going strong.

Colors: Black, Multi, White, Shocking Pink, Chrome, Coral, Grass Green, Citrus, Lilac, Lemon, Caviar, Head Painted Print

Fabrics and Textures: Silk Faille, Patent, Chiffon, Ultra Suede, Neoprene, Ponte Knit, Leather, Wool Crepe, Horsehair, Wool, Crepe, Mohair, Lame, Plastic, Feathers, Silk Gazar, Bugle Beads, Satin, Jersey, Silk Crepe, Tulle, Satin, Taffeta, Paillette, Duchesse Satin

Key Looks: Black Patent and Trapunto Silk Faille Jacket and Pant, Multi Layer Chiffon Wrap Dress, White Silk Faille Suit with Trapunto, Coral Braided Leather Twinset, Grass Green Double Face Wool Balmacaan, Coral Double Face Wool Crepe Dress and Coat with Ribcage Detail, Bias Lilac Lame Chiffon Pajama, Shocking Bugle Beaded and Feather Dress, Multi Colored Taffeta Gown, Black Caviar Beaded Cage with Matching Cigarette Pant, Black Patent and Head Painted Satin Gown

-Alia Rajput

Photos: NY Mag

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