New York Fashion Week Spring ’13: Zac Posen’s Sunday Kind of Love

September 9, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring '13

Summary:  This season marked my second consecutive privilege of attending a Zac Posen runway show. Last season I sat directly behind Anna Wintour and just like that, the gauntlet had been thrown down. For Spring ’13, the venue was set for the outdoor balcony of Avery Fisher Hall at dusk and I realized that my expectations may once again be trumped. Celebrities, designers, and industry insiders swarmed inside the gleaming hall prior to the show and once again, it was a veritable fairytale. But the pre-show revelry was only the beginning of the the dream-like atmosphere. As the sun set, the lights went up and the velvety vocal stylings of Etta James crooned out over the plaza. The first model to step foot onto the impossibly long runway was none other than Naomi Campbell, resplendent in a red and white cherry blossom frock. All of a sudden, it was a picnic. It was a springtime wedding. It was a romantic getaway on any given corner of the planet. The models teased us as they sauntered — literally, sauntered— down the runway, allowing us to drink in every angle of the confections they wore. Lindsey Wixson waxed poetic in a sweetheart neckline and rosebud motif. Crystal Renn (slightly shorter than the rest) sashayed in blue chiffon. Karolina Kurkova strutted in slate blue satin. From the sophisticated day wear looks, it was clear Posen chose to create his own rules for a spring palette, eschewing the typical brights and pastels for a more musky, amber tonality.  Sharp angled suits simmered in crimson and boxy accordion pleats stood out on skirts in tones of blush and beige.

As the end drew near, the sculptural day dresses and elegant separates (a corset, tuxedo pants, a flash of tutu-like tulle) gave way to Posen’s raison d’etre: the evening gown. Though stunning and intricate as ever, Posen seemed to pull back on the reigns a little for spring. Floral motifs danced delicately down satin skirts and amid layers of charmeuse and tulle. Posen’s signature origami folds dipped and wrapped in a playful and alluring way. Nothing was too serious, too severe, too unattainable. And then, how else could the storybook romance end but with a show-stopping three-tiered bridal bowl gown shown off by Posen’s longtime muse, Coco Rocha. Ever the adept craftsman able to tow the line between retro and modern, Posen’s whole show resonated with the kind of post-war romance that made me wish all the photos were taken in sepia. These were timeless pin-ups and postcards punctuated with a lipstick kiss, yet displayed in a current and feral way that allowed all of us to relate. We have been these women. And if we haven’t yet, we will.

Colors: cream, ivory, blush, beige, crimson, black, navy, slate blue, moss, silver, gold, coral, tan, mint, cherry blossom print, rosebud print, black, rust, poppy, champagne

Fabrics and Textures: silk, satin, silk charmeuse, duchesse satin, tulle, chiffon, silk gazar, taffeta, crystal beaded, double faced, pleated, origami folds, tiered, corseted, bustled, shantung

Key Looks: Cap-sleeved rosebud day dress, Ivory ruffle peplum top, Rust halter dress with inverted accordion pleats, Ice blue fishtail gown,  Crimson satin gown with sweetheart neckline, Moss silk satin gown with origami folds, Navy ruffled tulle mermaid gown, Ivory ruffle-tiered ballgown

-Alia Rajput

Photos: WWD

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