Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring ’13: Jenny Packham’s Modernized High Rollers

September 11, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring '13

Summary: Jenny Packham knows her audience. I remember seeing her Spring show just a year ago and she embraced her girlie aesthetic. Pinks and light blues covered in sequins and crystals, sparkling as they glided down the runway. For her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, she took a bit of a darker turn focusing on Film Noir of the 1940s. It might have been too much of a turn in the wrong direction too quickly. I believe that the Spring/Summer 2013 ready-to-wear capsule is the collection she should have made last season.

It seems to be more of a natural transgression for a designer to want to get out of a rut but looking back, it almost looked as she was a teenager rebelling against their parents. This seems more natural reaction to making more of a grown-up and commercial acceptable collection and less of a “look at me!” move from than the super girlie look that she’s known for. Inspired by the high rollers and Las Vegas gambling spirits of the 1960s, the collection brings in the soul of the hedonist’s paradise. Modeled after the women known for their intoxicating combination of beauty , inscrutability and independence, it focuses more on bringing life and a decadent collection. Geometric prints make a bold statement in black and white pailettes while staying modern, while soft ice blue draped silk adds femininity.

The collection seemed to be more wearable as a whole. Packham is known for her overzealous use of Swarovski crystals, making the dresses seem like almost unwearable art pieces. This collection included more draped cap-sleeved silk dresses and figure-hugging full-length silk chiffon gowns. Though they still were adorned with sparkling crystals that dazzled on the runway, they still felt a little underwhelming. The effect was almost the look of a simplistic bridesmaid dress. Could this be a backlash of the over-indulgence of crystals and beading? Or is this the product of a struggling economy? Only time will tell if this new Packham will stick.

Color Palette: light gray, silver, white, gold, light blue, ice, white, black, mimosa yellow, pale pink, eucalyptus green, lilac, sunset orange, waterfall blue

Fabrics & Textures: silk crepe, metallic, silk, crepe, satin, crystal beading, chiffon, pailettes, tulle, sequins, rhinestones, Swarovski crystals

Key Looks: Pale mimosa yellow draped silk chiffon gown with surplice neckline and Swarovski crystal-covered Christian Louboutin platform pumps; Black and white beaded geometric full-length gown and Swarovski crystal-covered Christian Louboutin platform pumps; White illusion gown with crystal-covered shoulders and cowlback and Swarovski crystal-covered Christian Louboutin platform pumps

– Taneisha Jordan

Photos: WWD

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