Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring ’13: Osklen Dances on an Endless Summer Day

September 11, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Spring '13

Summary: The Brazilian clothing brand Osklen had a lot to prove for it’s premiere season at New York Fashion Week. The brand had already been named the one to watch by Refinery29 and Racked, so pressure was already mounting for a huge success. While the brand made a fashion statement for it’s first collection shown stateside, it did feel a little underwhelming.

Designer Oskar Metsavaht had a clear thought in mind when presenting: the true Califorian aesthetic. Before the show began, Metsavaht explained that the process was more about your feelings at the end of a summer day… waking up before sunrise and spending the whole day at the beach. Playing on the concept of the relaxed surfer lifestyle and the Brazilian soul of Ipanema, these would be your go-to items.

Looking at the pieces individually, you can see the design concept at play. Transparent organza tops printed with colorful beach scenes were paired sleek silk pants and knit cap-sleeved tops were layered on top of sheer chiffon maxi dresses. The feel was a very Caribbean-inspired vibe yet casual. I know that Osklen was hoping to make their major debut a success but it may not play out that way. The maxidresses with the single back strap detail has been done to death in years past and bronze lame has a tendency to look cheap with it’s not tailored well. Many of the clothes seem to skew to the unfinished tailoring and in turn, made many of the pieces look sloppy.

West coast girls will surely get a kick out of clean, unstructured tunics, sheer tops and slim-cut silk ankle pants but it will be interesting to see how the rest of America will react. Maybe this will be a learning exercise for Osklen and next season can plan accordingly and bring more tailoring to make an awesome collection.

Fabrics & Textures: neoprene, linen, silk, silk chiffon, lame, knit, rubber, ponte

Colors: red orange, slate grey, white, cream, ivory, ink, navy, khaki, sand, tangerine, bronze, camel, forest green, pale pink

Key Looks: Cream sheer top, cream collared cotton crop top and knee-length ponte pencil skirt with hi-lo hem; Sheer white and black palm tree print chiffon maxidress; Ink short sleeved button-down silk chiffon shirt with palm print and crisp silk chiffon trouser pants

– Taneisha Jordan

Photos: Style.com

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