Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’13: Jill Stuart’s Structured Femininity

February 9, 2013 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '13

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Summary: Jill Stuart continued the Victorian feel for Fall in a collection that featured dark tones and a series of structured coats, embellished necklines, oversized eyelet and feminine, tea-party-appropriate elegance. This season, Stuart incorporated a really lovely mix of the masculine and feminine. Although the collection began with an emphasis on structured wool jackets and exquisite tailoring in dark tones, it moved seamlessly into the dress territory, featuring panels of sheer fabrics and flouncy skirts with gold floral and polka dot patterns. A particular favorite seemed to merge the collection’s dual interests when a short metallic jacket featuring a strong lapel and structured sleeves was paired with a white button-up and short black lace skirt. The short jacket made another resurgence later in the collection sans lapel in a deep, dark green version with a slimmer silhouette and asymmetrical closure.

There’s no question that Stuart favors the girly party dresses for which she is famous, but her departure from that into stronger silhouettes is a welcome one, and personally, where I thought this collection truly shined.

Colors: Navy, black, white, metallic, red, yellow, blue, green, gold, cream, pink.

Fabrics and Textures: Wool, eyelet, sheer, lace, structure, peplum, floral, polka dots, silk, pailettes, raffia.

Key Looks: Short navy coat with puff sleeves, exaggerated lapel and ruffled black collar, slim black trousers; Black button-up sheer shirt with white peter pan collar, slim black trousers and open black cape; Cream and black long-sleeved silk striped dress with peplum waist and diagonal patterning.

– Amanda Aldinger

Photos: NYMag

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