Summary: This season, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais revisit the Bowery, its “history for vice and entertainment, theatre, saloons and opium dens juxtaposed with its current street savoy constituency.” It is Edwardian meets downtown, in a Ruffian collection of classic looks hit with slightly off-kilter styling.
The colors and textures are sumptuous: black velvet coats, deep aubergine suits, thick boucle and necklines accented with scarves tied into bows and secured with oversized, gilded camelot brooches. I am not one for pinstriped suits on women – they seem outdated and unflattering no matter the moment or the styling – but that is not to say that Wolk and Morais’ menswear inspiration was not effective. I love exaggerated layering and ankle trousers paired with dresses and oversized shirts. Lucky for me this was a consistent look throughout, including one that matched a jet black beaded “Minnie Mini Skirt” with a silk peplum jacket and a pair of slim, loose, black calf-length pants.
Here, what would be seen as gaudy elsewhere works. As part of a jewelry collaboration with Sequin, oversized tassels drip down from gold chokers in the front and zipper pulls in the back. In one of my favorite looks, a gorgeous gold necklace stretches nearly to the calf-length hem of a dress. The look has a 20s vibe; its flowing shapeless fit and sheer beaded long sleeves end the collection beautifully. Having begun with very tailored suits and men’s shirting, it was exciting to see a shift into a selection of dresses that moved beautifully, confidently, with ease.
Overall, Wolk and Morais presented looks with incredible detail, crafted from gorgeous fabrics. The Ruffian boys are well versed in creating evocative worlds – this opulent homage to New York’s Bowery is no exception.
Colors: Purple, black, grey, white, bronze, brown, red, navy, pewter, gold, metallic, green, aubergine
Fabrics and Textures: Velvet, silk, rouche, jacquard, horsehair, boucle, leather, knit, floral, damask, beading, pinstripes, lace, wool.
Key Looks: Floral nouveau jacquard mayfair trouser, green ibra jacquard charles blouse, black knit capelet; Black chatelain dress; Moire silk rouche charlotte dress, gold ibra jacquard doyle trouser.
– Amanda Aldinger
Photos: NYMagSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40