New York Fashion Week Fall ’13: Alexandre Herchcovitch’s Deconstructed Garden of Wonders

February 9, 2013 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '13

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Summary: When I think of the best day ever, it usually involves playing dress up with Tilda Swinton. There we are, slicking back our short hair dos, dancing to Bjork on our iPods pretending to be creatures from the black lagoon and dressing up in clothes designed by Alexandre Herchcovitch. Tilda and I, we love his FW13 collection.

I could not contain my delight when the first model came out at Milk Studios and the peplum of her gorgeous white dress was larger than her torso. And so continued a magical eruption of disproportion: a red strapless gown featuring what looked like half a hip bustle, moving asymmetrically into gathering of ruffles near the right knee. At a glance, the foundation of each shape was simple, but a closer look told a story of growth and movement. Even as the floral patterns emerged, it was clear that Herchcovitch’s flower inspiration was just as structural, if not more, than visual. Dresses with sleeves were deconstructed – as the sleeves fell to the side or wrapped around the waist, the exposed under-layers were left. A beautiful architectural choice that revealed each garment as the sum of its parts.

I am not a floral person at all. I rarely stray from black, navy and cream. But the dusky mauves and greens and smoky whites that emerged in the floral prints of beautiful flowing separates were haunting in their elegance. Like vintage drapery found in your grandmother’s attic, they told a story of time and movement, particularly after following the bold structure of the first selection of looks.

Towards the end was the type of dress-making I would like to see rid the red carpet of its vile roots in high school prom attire. Beautiful, silky tiered skirts in bold blocks of color featured the same deconstructed concept with a regal Victorian presence (quickly becoming a theme for Fall.) Commanding, beautiful, elegant – they are distinct proof that there is ingenuity still in dress-making.

A masterful collection. Herchcovitch is a quiet genius and a beautiful storyteller. Tilda and I heartily approve.

Colors: White, red, burgundy, wine, forest green, mauve, gold, lavender, black, tan, beige, cream, pale green, brown

Fabrics and Textures: Chiffon, peplum, ruching, pleating, silk, stripes, sheer, floral print

Key Looks: White, sleeveless dress with with an oversized peplum bodice; Cream, silk one-sleeved dress with black stripes, a deconstructed right sleeve and exposed black and cream striped bikini top; Cream dress with floral print and three-tiered structured skirt with ruffles and side panels.

– Amanda Aldinger

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