I stopped backstage before the Libertine show to chat with MAC Makeup Artist Chantal Miller, whose look was inspired by a bold, dramatic 1960s eye for fall.
As Chantal put it: “Basically the inspiration for Libertine is more of a 60s iconic reference. It’s not the 60s Twiggy type of traditional makeup with the painted on lash, but it’s almost like that era of noir where the liner got thicker and the lashes got bigger, almost a bit Sharon Tate. We are doing a shape that’s a little more modern. We’re basing out the liner with a product called Blacktrack Fluidline, which is a gel liner, and this is basically one of those products that makes it easier for you to get the shape. We want it really vinyl for the show, however when you get into using liners that are vinyl, often times they’re super water proof and once you have them on you can’t touch up. And then we take Superslick liner and we’re basically going to dance this onto all of the high spots, so where she would blink and the edges, to make it look like vinyl.”
Chantal noted that in the three years she has done the makeup for Libertine, it’s always been about the eye. Although this season featured a bit of a twist.
“In the seasons past we’ve definitely stayed more with the sexy degraded smoky eye. So this season we’re doing something that’s a huge departure. It’s really structured.” The look is created with two different lashes: first the #3, and then the #2 lash laid over the top. “That’s as big as lashes get,” Chantal said. “You don’t see lashes this size being used these days, but what’s great is when you have so much black on the eye, all we’re seeing is that bit of the tip of the lash sticking up above the liner.”
As you can see from the face chart, this Fall features a very minimal approach to makeup. Focusing on that statement eye and keeping everything else clean. “There’s no skin,” Chantal said. “We’re prepping with a bit of Skin Refine Zone, which is a primer that softly tightens the skin but also keeps it matte and then we’re using loose power, but Johnson does not like foundation. And I think that’s what also makes doing a liner like this super cool and different. To take this super structured vinyl moment and put it against raw skin. New York is such a skin city. We work really hard for our skin here.”
For a final touch, nails by Butter were amazing. The gems matched the crystal embroidery throughout the collection and are definitely a standout nail trend of the season.
– Amanda Aldinger
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