Summary: This season, Catherine Malandrino was inspired by French Art Deco, inciting a collection of clean, graphic shapes in a color palette fairly limited to black, with bursts of aubergine, nude and absinthe green in a few key looks.
Malandrino’s celebration of graphic shapes was straightforward and elegant, two consistent hallmarks that keep her looks chic and stylish without pretension. I am particularly fond of her outerwear – I love graphic, explorative shapes in coats and jackets and this is an area where she truly shines. High necks, bedecked capes, quilted belted puffy coats and a simple, timeless cashmere wool jacket that felt as if it would be what the young Parisian Madeline of storybook yore would wear as an adult.
I am always drawn in by Malandrino’s intricate detail. Simple black and navy dresses turn into a veritable geometric explosion, as myriad patterns and shapes are woven together against sheer bodices to create looks filled with gorgeous movement and depth. This is where the designer is tricky though. Her shapes seem so simple, the garments so straightforward. But her collections are not the kind that can be fully taken in amongst the throngs of a presentation. I always appreciate the time I have with photos of her clothing afterward, where I can sit and truly study each of the pieces and they way move together to create a seemingly uniform garment.
Despite all the black, a standout look was an aubergine silk crepe blouse with puffed, ruched sleeves tucked into high-waisted forest green harem trousers. Although the rich colors made a strong impact and left me wanting more, perhaps that is their strength: restraint. Malandrino goes just far enough and not a touch over. Très French, indeed.
Colors: Black, burgundy, nude, blue ice, absinthe, aubergine, white.
Fabrics and Textures: Tulle, velvet, embroidery, pleats, wool, leather, lizard embossing, crystals, lace, cashmere, jersey, ribbon, quilting, scallops, silk, crepe, poplin, satin.
Key Looks: Aubergine silk crepe blouse, absinthe high waisted wool trousers; Black round funnel collar cashmere wool jacket, black box pleat skirt with black velvet border; Absinthe funnel colar cape jacket and black box pleat wool skirt.
– Amanda Aldinger
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