Retailers Dig The Seventies Vibe at Milan Fashion Week
There was a strong Seventies vibe on the runways in Milan and retailers praised the easy, yet feminine designs with pants (a rarity) and a heightened play on Italian craftsmanship. Colorful maxidresses, hip-hugging flared trousers, patchworks, floral and geometric prints, transparency, organza, lots of suede, suede with embellishment and fringe trims were some of the main trends this season. What will we see in our stores?
Ken Downing, Senior Vice President and Fashion Director at Neiman Marcus said, “The nice thing is that there was a consistency around the entire week — this message of the romantic, free-spirited Bohemian girl. Milan is having a real moment again.” He cited Marco de Vincenzo, as his “top collection,” and Bottega Veneta, Etro and Emilio Pucci among his favorites.
Colleen Sherin, Senior Fashion Director at Saks Fifth Avenue, said that, “with a focus on luxe materials, artisanal embellishments and great pride in craftsmanship, Milan did not disappoint. There was opulence, sex appeal and just a touch of flash.” Her favorite collections included Prada, Fendi, Etro, Marco de Vincenzo, Giamba, Roberto Cavalli and Pucci.
Julie de Libran To Debut at Paris Fashion Week
Sonia Rykiel’s new artistic director, Julie de Libran will show her first collection on Monday during Paris Fashion Week. Before this she was at Louis Vuitton for six years as Studio Director of Women’s RTW under Marc Jacobs. She said she hopes to return Sonia Rykiel to its roots as a purveyor of fashions that were approachable, yet immediate and desirable. Her first collection is not only what will be shown on the runway, but a showroom full of interpretations and variations and what the French call a “declinaison.” “You have to have the dress to the knee, the top with the sleeves,” she explained. “It’s really creating a whole season’s wardrobe.”
De Libran hinted the show will include interplays of masculine and feminine garments which are a part of the Rykiel legacy. Knitwear will remain a foundation of the house. Watch for denim, leather, bathing suits, lingerie and fur to play an important role in her collection.
Lululemon Opens First Mens Store
Lululemon Althletica signed a pair of leases late last month on two corners facing each other at Prince and Wooster streets in Soho. One will be the athletic apparel retailer’s first store just for men. The men’s store will take the space at 127 Prince Street, previously occupied by Lucky Brand, on the west side of Wooster Street. The women’s store was signed for 125 Prince Street, on the east side of the street, which is currently home to Spanish shoe retailer Camper. The Lululemon deals underscore continued leasing strength in the Soho market, where there had been resistance to high asking rents on Spring and Prince streets. Other brands including Kate Spade with a Jack Spade a block away have multiple stores in Soho. But those shops are not on facing corners and not as prominent as Lululemon’s set up.
– Carol Calacci
Sources: WWD, The Real Deal
Photo: WWDSee the Top Ten Summer 2016 Trends for Women Over 40
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