Le Roi Est Mort, Vive Le Roi! A Report on Spring 2015 Haute Couture

February 23, 2015 • Magazine, Male Box

Spring Couture 2015 Review

Many of you might have been worried that living in Los Angeles had somehow warped my fashion values. Let me assure you that I am as firm in my sartorial convictions as ever. I mean what’s air conditioning for if not to make sure you’re comfy in four-ply cashmere in February – even when it’s 80 degrees outside? Yes, the land of surf and skate fashion surrounds me but I still live quite happily in my high fashion bubble. Admittedly, I was starting to give the local self proclaimed fashionistas some slack when it came to wearing spring collection through the early fall, but I draw the line at wearing spring in winter, no matter what the temperature is. All that ended last week, with Trunk Show season.

At the Dior Spring Summer 2015 trunk show on Rodeo Drive, I found my people. From those dressed head-to-toe in Dior to those super stylish women who can mix this season’s must-haves with basics from Zara or H&M, the women of LA turned out – and turned heads, particularly mine. I had almost given up on believing in their existence. Imagine, there are actually women here who can have a serious conversation about the Haute Couture!

Speaking of which, as my colleagues are providing you with up-to-the-minute reporting on the New York Fall 2015 collections, I thought I would give you a brief review of the Paris Spring 2015 Haute Couture Collections, which provide “inspiration” to many of the looks in New York Fashion Week. Some New York designers have been known to be sewing looks right up until they hit the runway in this “highest form of flattery.”

We will start with Dior. Raf Simons has taken heat for his first few seasons as Creative Director, but this season he really has seemed to have nailed it. Melding his own modern sensibility with the DNA of the storied fashion house, he is finally taking full advantage of having a team of couture craftsmen, who are mostly women. Take the staple of the spring collection – the floral dress. The silhouette is updated classic Dior, the graphic quality of the individual flowers is pure Raf minimalism and the embroidery is couture construction at its finest.

My favorite collection of the season was Gaultier. Unfortunately, it came to the public consciousness when a certain “actress” wore one look on the red carpet recently and was panned for her lumpy golden bathrobe. Many of us were wondering just how over the top his Couture collection would be given that he has so much free time after shuttering his pre-a-porter business. Well the collection was Gaultier at his best, blending two looks in one, flawlessly. He fused le smoking with ball gowns and ladies with vamps. The result was pure showmanship and couture construction on parade!

Chanel shows are always a spectacle and this season, Lagerfeld did not disappoint. The set literally bloomed! Mechanically flowers aside, the clothes themselves were HC works of art. Floral in all its forms stalked the runway. My favorite was a pale pink evening gown. Streamlined and modern, the dress is hand sewn with silk flower petals in a trompe l’oeil pattern. The silhouette is both ball gown and stiletto at the same time!

Finally, no discussion of Paris Couture this season would be complete without a review of the latest collection of fashion’s enfante terrible, John Galliano. Most of us scratched our heads when we first heard that he was taking the reins of Maison Martin Margiela. I simply could not imagine how Galliano’s “more is more” aesthetic would meld with the deconstructivist DNA of the chic minimalist brand. After all, Margiela himself is often mistakenly included in the Antwerp Six – such is his association with Avant Garde fashion. This current collection is truly a testament to Galliano’s talent as a designer who can adapt his skills within the construct of a storied fashion house. While may of the looks were marvelous, the look that seemed to deconstruct itself as the model walked was a dress made of silk satin and silk chiffon ribbons. Putting political correctness aside, as fashion often does, the King of Couture has returned!

I hope you found this review interesting, if not informative. Know that I remain committed to bringing you the latest in high fashion news no matter how hard the flip flops and shorts in winter set try to drag me, and my taste, down!

– Joseph Ungoco

Photos: Style.com

Image Layout: Second City Style

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