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Alia Rajput / February 16, 2011 3:30 pm
Summary: Guests to the Fall '11 Adrienne Vittadini runway show were in for a real treat. As a way to honor and embrace some of the most prominent faces in the past few decades of fashion, Vittadini's chose some of the very first Supermodels for his show, titled 'Modern Muses.' Sporting a breezy 13-piece collection of fall staples were none other than Carol Alt, Roshumba, Irina Pantaeva, Nikki Taylor, Pat Cleveland, Frederique van der Wal and the great Carmen Dell'Orefice. Each timeless beauty was resplendent in charcoal herringbone, granite tween and bright red knit. Standout pieces included a black boucle vest, a chain-detail crewneck sweater and a charcoal batwing poncho over a finely tailored tulip skirt. It was fun to see such a impressive lineup of women still "workin' it" on the runway. And while the collection as a whole may not have one of the most sensational of the season, it's presentation should ensure that it won't be forgotten anytime soon.
Color Palette: tannin, charcoal herringbone, granite, silver, pearl heather/tannin, black, anthracite
Fabrics and Textures: knit, ponti, mink, chain-detail, featherweight flannel, tweed, silk georgette, hand knit, fine gauge knit, boucle, leather, lace, crepe de chine, chiffon, sequin, lurex, shearling
Key Looks: Charcoal herringbone ponti slim suit with mink collar, black chiffon sequin tank with lurex full-length skirt, charcoal batwing fine gauge knit poncho over tulip skirt, anthracite shearling vest, tannin knit hourglass dress with ribbed sleeve
-Alia Rajput
Photo Source: WWD
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Lauren Dimet Waters / February 16, 2011 3:00 pm
Summary: Leave it to Alexandre Herchcovitch to surprise us. Known for his bold and bright prints, Herchcovitch did a 180 and sent a print free and dark, muted collection down the runway. There was a jolt of yellow (it looked more chartreuse from where I was sitting) in the form of silk and lace here and there, but otherwise the collection was dark. His focus was on dimension, texture and fabric manipulation. Herchcovitch was inspired this season by Volcanic rocks, magma and rock sediment. The yellow lace was to appear as if it were exploding out of delicate cracks. The look was almost gothic at times, with a series of black wool hooded dresses and coats, which after a couple seemed a little redundant. I could not believe Herchovitch used grey knit shawl color coats and jackets with pearls? What show was this again? What really blew me away were the dramatic wool coats with buckles at the arms that kept the models almost starightjacketed. I was intrigued. Is it wearable? Who knows, but it was so refreshing to see a designer finally push the creative envelope a bit this season.
Aside from the intriguing collection everyone was talking about the breathtaking side braids that looked almost woven into the model's hair. Bumble & bumble really came up with a very unique look you would just love to recreate, but know you can't. And then there were the volcano inspired light-reflecting sculpted Lava clutches that were actually acrylic resin bags. Wow. They are available for purchase now at ahalife.com.
Color Palette: yellow, grey, black
Fabrics & Textures: silk chiffon, silk satin, cashmere, wool, lace
Key Looks: shawl collar grey knit coat with pearls; black lamb pantsuit with bits of yellow silk; yellow silk belted dress; grey with black straightjacket coat; black wool dress with black lace arms; hooded black wool dress with waist lace; long black wool gown with yellow lace arms.
- Lauren Dimet Waters
Photos: WWD
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Alia Rajput / February 16, 2011 1:00 pm
Summary: For designers whose signature style stems from many a firty and feminine dress, sometimes fall can present a challenge. How can the sweet and carefree nature that's sprinkled into the springy pieces they're well known for, be translated for fall? Nanette Lepore set out to prove that it can be done, and made some pretty convincing arguments. Arguably the best part of the collection was in the beginning, where gossamer slipdresses billowed under crocheted knit cardigans. The filmy palette ranged from eggshell to a soft dove grey. And despite the contrast of thick and thin fabrics, the outfits flowed like one cohesive thought. Later on, Lepore's sweeping boho dresses and cute little minis were tucked under blazers and cardigans, though some seemed like a forced gesture to make springier looks appropriate for fall by throwing a sweater over them.
Later the looks channeled some of the Southeast Asian flavor that showed up on Lepore's contemporaries runways from Pamella Roland to Ralph Lauren. And while the trend had already been seen in various forms, Lepore joined the ranks handsomely with her black and white belted confections. While the collection did have some inconsistencies later in the collection (leather dresses and teal ruffles?) her initial vaporous looks will undoubtedly become a key trend of the season.
Color Palette: ivory, beige, tan, cream, dove grey, natural print, astral print, storm, amber, boudoir print, cloud print, sky, star, teal, black
Fabrics and Textures: lace, shearling, gossamer, wool, leather, zebra, satin, tweed, rhinestone, chiffon, bow, wrap, slip, tiered, bias
Key Looks: Astral print skirt, long star skirt, wool peplum dress, gossamer top, leather bow dress, cloud print tiered dress, star top, rhinestone wrap dress, long lace dress, boudoir print dress
-Alia Rajput
Photo Source: NY Mag
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Taneisha Jordan / February 16, 2011 11:00 am
Summary: Celebrating the strength and power of seductive sensuality, Yigal Azrouël creates silhouettes that shape the body and play on tailoring. The suiting is accomplished through "formal wear made pedestrian." Rich fabrications like the ostrich feathers and duchesse satin give depth, dimension and effortless movement to each piece.
The splashes of color keep the menswear from being too harsh. The bright cobalt and hunter green help the tailored suiting and oversized knits to keep things in the realm of "artistic femininity.. The confluence of menswear and womenswear show a strong sense of personality and confidence of the collection as a whole.
Color Palette: black, curry, optic, royal, jet, dove grey, melange, soft loden, pomegranate, navy, salmon, jade, cement, tricolor, blue iris, bougainvillea, grey, muslin, sapphire, mandarin, loden, platinum, gold
Fabrics & Textures: waffle knit, shearling, suede, techno wool, cotton, ultra stretch duchesse, wool twill, velvet, leather, pearl knit, lurex, jersey, corduroy, crystal, silk charmeuse, tweed, mink, melton, chiffon, silk ottoman, herringbone, silk crepe, ostrich feathers
Key Looks: Navy/jet silk cloque and leather dress with jet suede heeled loafer; Jade illusion panel washed silk charmeuse gown with jet suede heeled loafer; Bone melton pullover, optic tux shirt, bone melton wool boy pant and jet lace wedge ankle boot.
-Taneisha Jordan
Photos: NY Mag
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Simona Kogan / February 16, 2011 10:21 am
There are a few things every fashionista knows about a Marc Jacobs runway show at New York Fashion Week. It will almost always be out of the box, there will almost always be a mind-blowing concept that stands apart from all other standard runway shows, and there will always be tons of celebrities on hand to see it.
So when last season's collection didn't show any of these things, we weren't surprised when not too many celebs showed up either. Had Jacobs passed his prime? Had he lost his luster? If this season's Fall 2011 runway (and the amount of A-list celebs in attendance) has anything to say about it, he most certainly has not!
Marc's line was much more tailored, sharp, slightly glittery and even a bit menswear inspired. The celebs that showed up surprised me for the most part, because when one compares the celebs to the style of clothing MJ offered, I see maybe only one or two of them actually incorporating his pieces into their wardrobe. That's the beauty of a Marc Jacobs show—he has star supporters wherever he goes, especially for this one.
Marc Jacobs, Fergie, Josh Duhamel
What's cuter and sexier then Fergie's printed MJ jumper and knee-length leather boots? The fact that she was holding onto supporting husband Josh Duhamel's hand throughout the show. It was definitely an "Aw" moment.
Liya Kebede, Karen Elson
Polka dots were definitely a big trend throughout the Marc Jacobs collection,which not only included cap sleeve pencil skirt dresses with dots, but also tights emblazoned with circles. Regardless, most of the celebs wore rich colors of red, pink, and brown. Liya Kebede, however, made a statement in her purple coat. Even with that delicious velvet jacket and a revealing print halter top, singer Karen Elson doesn't come close.
Leighton Meester
As I've mentioned in a previous post, I'm not in love with Leighton Meester's "real" style. On Gossip Girl, she plays a fashion-savvy Upper East Sider who swaps urban looks for Marchesa and lace. I would have loved to see her pull off those looks in real time. Alas, Leighton likes to play up the boho chic with her most recent looks. Well, Marc Jacobs may just be the way to do it. I'm not a huge fan of this dress, but it is Marc Jacobs at his best with a theme that will be remembered.
Vanessa Hudgens
Who knew the High School Musical star would be a fixture at New York Fashion Week, even showing up to Marc Jacobs? I'm not a fan of Vanessa's too-short tube top dress or her gladiator sandals, but that richly brown blazer is divine. I'm hoping it's Marc Jacobs.
Sofia Coppola
The Marc Jacobs muse (or is it Karl Lagerfeld that goes ga-ga over her) always knows what looks good on her figure, but never goes for ultra statement-making ensembles because the focus is on her work, not her. That fine red polka dot mesh shirt certainly makes enough brou without too much ha-ha.
Anna Wintour
Richly adorned, as usual, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour keeps up with the color scheme of the evening, which focused on fall's reds, browns, and purples.
Bryanboy
Not sure what kind of statement blogger Bryanboy was making with his oversized furry raccoon hat, but he certainly made it, a la David Crockett! Kudos to Bryanboy for always being over-the-top and not giving a damn about it!
Whoopi Goldberg
Martha Stewart
Didn't know that Whoopi Goldberg and Martha Stewart were Marc Jacobs fans, and your guess is as best as mine on how either one of them could wear ANYTHING in his newest collection. But no matter, they were there. They came, they saw, they conquered.
—Simona Kogan
Photos: Wireimage
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Taneisha Jordan / February 15, 2011 11:00 pm
Summary: Hard rock meets everyday glamour at Mackage. Mackage was created with the idea that outwear is an integral part of fashion and that one must layer their clothing. And when one does layer, it becomes the outfit itself. Designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan created a land of both layering feminine silhouettes with leather jackets.
The best thing about the collection was the fact that everything was so wearable. There was no need to have a special occasion to purchase one of their pieces as it can just be ready for a night on the town. I thought that the leather fingerless gloves were a nice touch on some of the pieces. It helped give some of the more feminine outfits a harder edge.
Color Palette: black, white, grey, camel, taupe, sand, toffee, spruce, ivory, rust, tonal, blue, pink, merlot, teal, dark grey
Fabrics & Textures: wool, leather, sheepskin, chiffon, fur, hazel, sequined, mongolian sheep, twill, jacquard, boucle wool, silk chiffon
Key Looks: Off white silk chiffon pleated shirt over taupe wool skirt with natural fur hat; Spruce long sleeve top over black wool trouser and fur hood scarf; Black beaded tailored collar asymmetrical hem gown
-Taneisha Jordan
Photos: NY Mag
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Alia Rajput / February 15, 2011 9:00 pm
Summary: It was refreshing to see on Tibi's program that their day wear lineup would be inspired by the "sleek and modern simplicity" of the 1990s. I immediately thought of boxy shapes, tailored pants and some sweet little dresses. What I wasn't expecting, was the bit of 90s grunge thrown into the mix in the form of hot pink skull caps and arm warmers, accenting the otherwise neutral palette like bright little exclamation points. Present were the boxy shapes and tailored pants, but displayed with a more modern edge since the soft blue, navy and olive green separates were mixed together, as opposed to the actual 90s versions when things were much more matchy-matchy. Another possible homage to the decade could be seen in the edgy black spider lace print, which called to mind the goth trend of the decade (and some looks from high school I would like to forget!)
The sweet little dresses I was hoping for came in wispy swaths of white, accented with a Rorschach-like print (very 2011) trailing the collar and hemline. Designer Amy Smilovic kept the flowy dresses and petal-pink separates from becoming too spring by pairing them with typical fall staples like a glossy shearling biker jacket (which I fell in love with) or a long mohair fencing coat.
As the sun slowly set on the collection and evening looks started to come out, the signature Tibi mix of playful and sophisticated could immediately be recognized. Goth and grunge were replaced my baroque jacquards and bold Rococo style prints. A standout set were dresses in navy and shimmering gold that paired the structure of jacquard with the gauzy movement of silk chiffon. The tuxedo trend showed up as well, which was a little on the "been done" side, but the final looks redeemed themselves with gowns boasting fluttering feather details and a gorgeous red and cream Rococo print emblazoned across a voluminous twill gazaar skirt. Overall, Tibi succeeded in the somewhat difficult task of inspiring us to look back while still getting excited about what lies ahead.
Color Palette: neon pink, petal pink, olive green, navy, aurora print, oatmeal, oatmeal melange, oak, spider lace print, nude, blush, ivory, mignonette, antique brass, teal, gold, metallic, black, swan feather print, red, cream, Rococo print
Fabrics and Textures: felted wool, meta, twill, knit, wood, shearling, leather, crepe de chine, wool flannel, silk crepe, tweed, merino wool, cable wool, mohair, lace, silk twill, faux fur, wool jersey, jacquard,web jacquard, chiffon, applique, silk chiffon, damask, liquified, sculptured, beaded, pleated, silk wool, chiffon crepe, origami pleated
Key Looks: Reversible shearling and leather coat, felted wool boy blazer, shearling biker jacket, knit hat in neon pink, mixed cable wool mid-calk sweater dress, spider lace shirt dress with clean front placket, silk tape applique dress with pleats and chiffon combo in teal, damask gold jacquard dress with silk chiffon combo in navy, swan feather print long dress with Deep V and fully gathered skirt, Rococo printed silk twill gazaar mid-calf poof skirt in red and cream
-Alia Rajput
Photo Source: NY Mag
Shop Tibi here!
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Alia Rajput / February 15, 2011 6:00 pm
Summary: The first thing I thought of when entering Rachel Roy's presentation (besides noting how gorgeous Roy is in person) was Russian Nesting Dolls. Having inherited a beautiful Eastern Europe set from my grandmother, I cherish the whimsy and playful elegance of the stack-able dolls, which I immediately identified in Rachel Roy's Fall'11 collection. Lined up in rows and set apart for our viewing pleasure, the models were piled high with a plethora of color, print and texture that spilled down from head to toe. Perhaps the intricate braids wrapped around the crowns of the models' heads added to my Russo-laced reflection, or the petite blossoms on the floral printed skirts and trousers. And yet, the collection did not seem antiquated in any way or even costumey. Roy provided a fresh and what she called "eclectic" mix of wearable separates adeptly paired for a modern globe-trotter look.
A slightly different aesthetic was seen in Roy's Trench Capsule Presentation, where eight silhouettes of trench was explored using denim. While this collection was a more accurate representation of Roy's signature use of cut and tailoring, it did make for a decidedly less exciting display when paired on static mannequins next to the live and vibrantly colored main collection.
Color Palette: wall paper floral, conifer, black, rust, feather print, nightshade, modern stripe, charcoal, blueberry, turmeric, midnight, ikat, navy, woven stripe, ivory, textured stripe, oatmeal, lotus print, grey, oselot print
Fabrics and Textures: silk chiffon, boiled wool, merino, cotton, wool, knit, suede, crepe, textured wool, mongolian wool, airsilk wool organdy, angora, intarsia, cashmere, jersey, charmeuse, tweed, jacquard, silk jacquard, lame/wool, shearling, satin, frisse, glass, denim
Key Looks: Wall paper floral silk chiffon dress, modern stripe intarsia knit, turmeric suede soft jersey tee, blueberry wooly angora puff jacket, lotus print silk jacquard blouse jacket, navy pebbled satin jumpsuit, conifer glass embroidered gown
-Alia Rajput
Photo Source: NY Mag
Shop Rachel Roy here!
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Lauren Dimet Waters / February 15, 2011 5:00 pm
Summary: Clearly fall/winter is Dennis Basso's season. His fall collection was an interpretation of traditional menswear with a feminine touch. This included more knitwear and crochet when we are used to seeing silk evening gowns, but who cares? At Basso's fall shows, it's all about the fur! This season, furs were in amazing new colors like smoke, khaki and some spice tones. Shoulders were defined, silhouettes were more form fitting, and the hem-lengths ran the gamut from short to long. Some of the looks that stood out were the multipelt fur coats with sportier finishes like cuffs, drawstring and hoods and the huge kadassia and and fox fur coats we promptly renamed "Chewie (Chewbacca) Coats." Not only do I desire a Dennis Basso coat (there were at least 5 I covet), I would not be opposed to the calf-length pair of skirts (yes, please) and fur bags that paraded down the runway. The oohs and ahhs from not only myself, but the people around me, made for an exciting show. Don't hate me for loving fur. When done like this, how can you not? What a beautiful collection. Well done, Dennis.
Color Palette: arctic dawn, arctic dusk, oatmeal, wheat, khaki, ombre, hazel, birch, slate, tundra, sea grass, shadow blue, marigold, brown, dark brown, chestnut, gun metal, smoke, arctic midnight, black
Farbics & Textures: silk chiffon, cashmere, hand knit, jersey, mohair, multi fur, kidassia, mink, fox, broadtail, sable, fisher, chinchilla, alligator, crochet, hand embroidery, fur bags
Key Looks: a kidassia fur shirt with a wheat hand-knit cardigan; belted oatmeal jersey gown with a sheer overlay; ombre kidassia fur coat; tundra chinchilla coat with an ombre mohair dress; sea grass multi fur and sable empire waist coat; Russian barguszine sable, kidassia and alligator coat with a cinnamon chinchilla and alligator tote; gunmetal silk jersey gown with a Russian barguzine sable and broadtail jacket; sea grass hand embroidered silk dress; arctic midnight multi fur coat.
- Lauren Dimet Waters
Photos: NY Mag
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Alia Rajput / February 15, 2011 4:00 pm
Summary: Designer Max Azria has a tall order to fill come Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. The pint-sized legend has three lines to design, orchestrate and display for his teeming masses each and every season. Each line in his trifecta—BCBGMAXAZRIA, Max Azria and Herve Leger—needs to be fresh and current while still staying true to its own aesthetic. And usually, Herve Leger is the one that ends up falling by the wayside in terms of innovation. Everyone loves the label's signature bandage dress so if it ain't broke, right? Wrong. Azria turned all preconceived notions on their heads this season with a lineup that reminded us all of why he's capable of fathering three distinct lines.
Sleek and sophisticated, the Herve Leger Fall' 11 lineup was like a delectable cross between medieval armor and the butt-kicking uniforms in 'The Matrix". Dresses stayed true to their traditional, body-hugging shape but were glittering in a cage-like web of chainlink that brought to mind an almost robotic feel. Bandage turned to bondage when leather harnesses showed up, entangling the black, cream and tan ensembles in intricate detail. And even the simplest of dresses, like a pure white sheath, had subtle stitching on the sides to give off the feel that she was just "created". It was all too much fun to take in.
The final looks of the collection called to mind a knight in shining armor as full-length gowns boasted all-over chain appliques in both silver, black and gold. And yet, the genius was in the fact that, though different, Azria's innovations were not over the top or a departure from his vision in any way. At first glance, the gowns just seemed to scintillate in the light. It wasn't until you saw how much acute detail went into the armor-like detailing that you realized what a work of art each piece really was. It was by far one of my favorite collections this season. And though it wasn't exactly every day wearable, there were a few fall-ish pieces that poked through, like a houndstooth jacquard dress and a brown hair calf coat. But overall, these were not the women you would see strolling the avenues on a crisp fall day. They were the ones saving the world.
Color Palette: beige, cream, black, black/grey, white, nude, gold, silver, houndstooth, brown, tan, nude/cream, amber, nutmeg
Fabrics and Textures: quilted leather, leather stud, hardware, chain, hair calf, jacquard, cage, leather, wool, applique, beading, harnessed, bandage
Key Looks: Beige bandage dress with leather stud detail, white bandage dress with silver stud detail, black bandage and hair calf A-line dress, black leather harness, nutmeg bandage dress with gold hardware, amber bandage A-line dress with gold hardware
—Alia Rajput
Photo Source: NY Mag
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