Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. The Fifth Dimension. Issey Miyake is the Shape of What’s To Come. Second City Style Fashion Blog

The dimension and volume of Miyake’s spring ’08 is incomparable. Every crease, line and curve of his dresses evidence a kind of care and interest in execution that sometimes gets lost in the shadow of a "concept" collection. Oddly, those are the ensembles that don’t work here– the fitigue-style outfits, T-shirts with slogans and overall ensemble don’t stand up to what comes before and after. And Miyake’s reliance on an abundance of material also takes the prize for the well-considered. Light, plaiable and clearly designed for spring they make more sense than some of the visually stimulating but oppressively warm gowns from Yamamoto and others.  Fresh as the summer rain, and perhaps designed for it too.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. Mime’s Eye. Homage to Marcel Marceau. Victor & Rolf. Second City Style Fashion Blog

There was something sweet– and not to mention sincere about Viktor & Rolf’s spring ’08 collection. In their homage to the late Marcel Marceau they chose to offer a commentary that was more than a bleak forecast of what’s been, what’s arrived and what’s to come. It’s easy to despair and much more difficult to find something evocative and honest and, ahem, still be beautiful (bratty newcomers to the runway take note). Their statement in Suzy Menkes review speaks volumes "He [Marcel Marceau] knew what was precious in our lives," said Ralph Snoeren and Viktor Horsting backstage to explain why – even before the performer’s demise – they had fixed on that creative inspiration for their spring/summer 2008 show Tuesday."

Indeed, with their pierrot collars down to the patterns on the heels of their shoes they took the more difficult road– foregoing irony for something inspiring.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. Space Invader Style. Balenciaga. Second City Style Fashion Blog

There is some a little unheimlich about this collection– I’m thinking Tales of Hoffman meets Tron. And to think that after reading Cathy Horyn’s blog about the "floral" motif (with one picture that was supposed to represent this whole collection btw) I thought I was in for a garden party of sorts… But I digress and will save my rant about recent Menkes and Horyn reviews for later.

Back to Balenciaga’s spring ’08 collection. Indeed, the almost inhuman beetle-like shapes that are the foundation for the collection are hardly "pretty" and maybe that’s the point. The hard, shell-like demeanor of the fabric is an interesting juxtaposition to what’s usually considered frilly and sweet. Duplicates (automatons?) walk down the runway eventually transforming themselves into robotic figures and lose almost all evidence of their femininity (note the turn to the pants). Is this really the future?– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. In the Dress of Despair. Victorian Techno-Goth at Yohji Yamamoto. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Maybe it’s about mourning the demise of the winter season? But I don’t think so. Actually, while I am tempted to whine about it’s lack of interest in seasonality and disregard for the body, I am opting to praise Yamamoto’s interest in the shape, texture and historic proportion in his spring ’08 collection. Yes, black is omnipresent but what makes it innovative is his Victorian spin– note the wide, full, structured skirts. Complimenting the dark hue is a shiny silver space-age fabric that is reminiscent of how Hollywood imagined visitors from the outer limits. And what else would complete the the fashion triptych that a multicolored oversized floral print in primary colors sitting atop a black background. Is this the innovative and super-hyped Yamamoto — no, but at least we’ll be dressed to mourn this season’s offerings.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. Puttin’ on the Ritz. Dazzling at Dior. Second City Style Fashion Blog

This is what you wear when you want to dress, not simply put on a dress. Galliano’s RWT collection for Dior is simply stunning– not an ode or interpretation of old school glamour but a complete embodiment. (And this includes his strange diversion into a 20′s lingerie-style cabaret ensembles). Filled with the lovely curves and angles that make women mysterious and moody Galliano has forgone gimmicks and the lure of being a l’enfant terrible in favor of recalling the pleasure of allure and the titillation that comes from just the right amount of tension between he who gazes and she who looks back. The best I’ve seen so far.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. On the Fringe. Beauty at Balmain. Second City Style Fashion Blog

There’s a delicious glam-bohemian vibe in the air. And Balmain’s spring ’08 collection is no exception. Full of fringed dresses, skirts, belts and vests it even included a contemporary take on tie-dye style. But like the modern woman, it wasn’t ready to give up sensuality for slacker. These ladies were still ready for the ball in short, flirty skirts and floor-length gowns.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. Post Fall-Out Fairytale. Vivienne Westwood. Second City Style Fashion Blog

If I had a fashion fairy godmother she would most likely end up being somewhat like Vivienne Westwood– you know, a little nuts in that well-meaning crazy cat lady kind of way. And this season at the Paris shows Ms. Westwood, whom I adore btw, doesn’t disappoint. Using a melage of fabrics, patterns and "personas" Westwood created a collection that most strongly a cast of fairytale characters that (thankfully) doesn’t resemble the ones usually found in foppish 18th century couture shows. Instead, sexy, strong women are cast as wicked witches– shiny, sheer, black, and unabashedly beautiful; lost seekers in the woods with their sheer, soft hoods, and what else screams post-nationalist chaos like ladies wrapped in cloth and an ultra-femme spin on the statue of liberty. Bravo, Westwood. — Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Wireimage

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. The Trite Fight. Bernhard Willhelm You Could Have Done Better. Second City Style Fashion Blog

I expected more from Bernhard Willhelm. I am usually a fan of the way his collections take on a certain self-consciousness that still isn’t self-indulgent. This is why his spring ’08 display causes me great sadness. More reminiscent of ’80′s agit-prop art it somehow loses whatever sort of provocative or interesting thrust that might appear at Paris fashion week in late 2007. Not only am I not impressed by the immobile women that take on the appearance of mannequins, but I am a bit angry, as its such a cliche and doesn’t really contribute to a thoughtful contemporary conversation. Well, perhaps I’m wrong. It did do something interesting.. it made me laugh. And I did like the hat in the 11th image.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Wireimage

Paris Fashion Week Spring ’08. Technicolor Dreams. Manish Arora’s Cosmic Colors. Second City Style Fashion Blog

In Milan we saw people obsessed with taking a Southern holiday but in Paris we find fun and frolicking of a different sort. Often called the Galliano of Indian designers, Manish Arora is known for his fantastic and often humorous collection. And this season’s collection doesn’t disappoint: it’s light, bright and ready to delight. Filled with everything from tingue-in-cheek masks and headwear to insane neon-colored skirts and dresses that are beyond a mere three-dimensional design. The finale? An incredible glow-in-the-dark evening gown constructed with three-dimensional butterflies. Indeed, this is Paris.– Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Wireimage