Haute Historian: That Touch of Mink

Controversy. When Prince sang about it he definitely wasn’t singing about the use of fur in fashion, although he certainly could have been. For being the oldest material used to clothe the human form, it has garnered the most controversy and all-out drama within the fashion world (not an easy feat) and it’s a to-do sure to continue far into the future. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) and their brethren publicly bash, harass and creatively oppose the wearers of fur and fashion designers who use it, although designers rarely seem to take notice of the criticism. Karl Lagerfeld has been known to be a staunch supporter of the fur industry and takes on a somewhat excessive “kill or be killed” mentality. Other designers however, whether in response to fur protestors or not, often seem to go to extremes when incorporating fur and leather into their collections. In 2008, Jean Paul Gaultier had models strutting down the runway garbed in fur pelts, some with teeth, nose and eyes still attached; not exactly what one would consider high-luxury. And yet, although it may be hard to imagine at this space and time considering the wealth needed for such an extravagant purchase, fur as clothing comes from very humble beginnings, very similar to what Gaultier may have been trying to mimic.

The first human to don fur, the caveman, going all the way back to the stone ages (think Fred and Wilma Flintstone) did so to protect himself from the elements and stay warm. Fur was an easy choice for its warmth and durability. However, it didn’t take long for this functional material to become something of fashion and the ultimate status symbol. The Greeks and Romans used horse hair in their helmets to denote high rankings and to a way to stand out from the crowd. Fur was also a sign of affluence and beginning during the Roman era it was a source of income as trading furs became prevalent and helped spread fur’s popularity from the Mediterranean to northern Europe.

Even though a mink coat is the ultimate status symbol today when talking fur, it was beaver felt that jump started fur as fashion in the 17th century. Beaver accessories such as muffs, hats and gloves were the platform that introduced fur fashions. The 1960s introduced a rejuvenation of the fur craze where every woman craved a mink coat, the most luxurious clothing item a woman could own. Of course with the rise in synthetic materials around this time, faux furs were just as popular and had women constantly questioning “is it real or fact?” Many women today may be asking the same question come this fall. As the cooler months hit, the furry trend is set to reemerge once again with luxurious furs dyed in wild shades, so don’t expect the controversies to end any time soon.

1. Jean Paul Gautlier Fall Ready-to-Wear 2008
2. Fred and Wilma Flintstone
3. Karl Lagerfeld Fall 2005 RTW
4. Gucci Fall 2011 RTW
5. 1960s Mink Coats

—Bonnie J Brown

Image Layout: Molly Murphy

Haute Historian: A Winning Duo? Proenza Schouler

Everyone loves an award ceremony, especially when the honorees are big in popular culture. Take the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, even though they only honor their own with the Academy Awards, the world watches a three- plus hour long television production to see who will walk away with an Oscar statuette.  Although on a slightly smaller scale, the same goes for the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA). The CFDA honors those who make exceptional contributions to American fashion and although it’s not aired, the council has a large following of people anticipating and eager to discover who will be named Womenswear Designer of the Year, among others.

The CFDA, a foundation which was created in 1962, is a not-for-profit organization which supports the American fashion industry by offering scholarships and nurturing professional development within fashion and its arts. The fashion awards ceremony recognizes those who are among the best in the industry and while many of the nominees are well known, some are rising stars. This year’s Womenswear nominations include previous winner, Marc Jacobs, who will also be honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award, and Alexander Wang, both of whom are big names in American fashion and culture. However, the list also includes lesser known, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler. While the nomination isn’t completely out of left field, as Proenza Schouler has been nominated twice for and won Accessory Designer of the Year in 2009, their nomination this year (whether they win or not) brings their women’s clothing designs to the forefront and puts them in the same category as many other successful designers such as Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karen and many more.

Proenza Schouler, named for the two men’s mothers, was created in 2002 after McCollough and Hernandez met while in school at Parsons. The two collaborated on their senior project which was bought in whole by Barney’s New York. While it doesn’t hurt that both men are vitally handsome, their success, however, comes from the fact that they are truly talented and produce impeccable clothing which women of varying ages long to don.  While often described as youthful, cool and hip, their luxurious designs are excellently tailored and their collections regularly feature structured corsets and fitted pencil skirts. This look may sound severe, but the end result is much more delicate and feminine without losing any of its sexuality.

As many collaborations go, each designer will have their own ideas and points of inspiration, so when it comes to Proenza Schouler it is truly a melting pot of both McCollough’s and Hernandez’s designs, creating something that one person alone could not. The duo often gathers their inspirations when taking a holiday after completing a show and the clothing will reflect the culture they visited while vacationing. The Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear collection came from what they saw on their Santa Fe trip. The Native American colors and textiles are transformed and made into clothing that shows its point of inspiration. But the inspirations are only that and are eventually adopted and made into something completely unique, a skill that the CFDA will certainly take into account when naming the 2011 Womenswear Designer of the Year on Monday, June 6.

1. Proenza Schouler Fall 2003 RTW

2. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough

3. Proenza Schouler Spring 2005 RTW

4. Proenza Schouler Spring 2011 RTW

5. Proenza Schouler Fall 2011 RTW

6. Awards given by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)

—Bonnie J Brown

Haute Historian: John Paul Gaultier. Sailors’ Duds

Ships Ahoy! The nautical trend has officially set sail. Although the wide-leg white pant, the horizontal navy and white striped top (also known as the Breton stripe) and a pair of boat shoes are more-or-less summer staples by now (even in landlocked areas) this season the trend is really making a splash. And while the look and its inspiration have militaristic origins, the trend is no longer just for those who serve in the navy and it hasn’t almost since its inception. Instead, fashion designers have been adopting the look for years and making it their own. Ralph Lauren, a classic American designer, is known for incorporating military themes and red, white and blue color palettes in his collections, but it’s actually French designer Jean Paul Gaultier who has capitalized on the Breton stripe in the modern sense.

The Breton stripe’s inspiration originally comes from the French sailors of Brittany, France, who wore a similarly striped, boat-neck collar knit shirt. It was designed in the 1850s as part of the French sailor’s uniform. The seafaring look has had its moments of trendsetting popularity long before Gaultier’s version came to shore (last pun, I promise!) and it seems as if the French have had a handle on this garment for quite sometime. In the early 1900s many bathing suits had nautical inspired attributes and children were often dressed as miniature sailors, as many moms are still wont to do. Coco Chanel, of course had a version that became popular for women and then later in the 1950s the shirt was once again a common style worn by many a young French man or woman.

It wasn’t until the late 1980s that Gaultier introduced the Breton stripe and his nautical inspired designs to the fashion industry. It came with the launch of his Junior Gaultier label which was geared toward a younger market. The line was very much nautical themed, a theme that would eventually carry over into his couture and ready-to-wear lines as well. The advertisements for his colognes would often feature a tattooed sailor wearing the Breton shirt or no shirt at all. While Gaultier has gone on and expanded his collections and is far from only being known as a nautical themed designer, the Briton stripes still show up intermittently in his collections. He even designed the interiors of a Paris apartment decked out in floor to ceiling marine style. And even though the basic top with navy and white stripes is an instant classic and go to for men and women alike, no longer are we restricted to just that. Today, the Breton stripe has been glamorized and can be found on anything from couture gowns to handkerchiefs.

1. Jean Paul Gaultier, Spring 2011 Couture
2. Jean Paul Gaultier, Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
3. Print Cologne Ad For Men
4. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
5. Coco Chanel Breton Top
6. Paris Apartment Designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, 2010
7. Gaultier in a Paris Apartment Designed by Himself, 2010

—Bonnie J Brown

Image Layout: Molly Murphy

Haute Historian: Fashion’s Glowing Trend

Bonnie J Brown

As the bitter days of winter are subsiding, bit by bit women are gradually shedding their many layers of heavy sweaters, wool pants and fur-lined boots and substituting them for sling-backs, gauzy dresses and bare legs. But as the temperatures rise there is one additional layer that is donned, the suntan. Whether the golden hue is achieved naturally from the sun, dangerously from the tanning bed or safely from the bottle,the added glow brightens the skin tone and is the go-to trend for spring and summer months, leaving its wearers with a healthy complexion, a trimmer looking physique (or so it would appear) and the ability to wear white without looking like a ghost. But just as the bikini or the miniskirt is a modern fashion trend, so too is that of the suntan.

Prior to the First World War, pale skin was the epitome of high fashion. Since the Roman ages, fair skin was something only the wealthy could afford. Not only was the upper class the only set of people who could avoid toiling away under the sun’s rays, they were also the only ones who could afford to spend money on white chalks and powders to lighten their skin tones. Most famously spreading this trend was Queen Elizabeth I, who was known to wear white lead makeup contrasted with bright red lips, a beauty trend that was then followed by the rest of her court, even the men. The fact that the lead makeup was detrimental to their health was of no consequence, as it was unlikely known that the powders being used contained arsenic. But even if they had known of its harmful qualities, it wouldn’t be the first nor the last time people sacrificed pain and suffering for fashion. Stiletto heels anyone?

It wasn’t until the 1920’s that the suntan become popular. It was then that the most fashionable woman in the world was seen exiting a yacht in the Mediterranean with a darker skin color then when she got on days earlier. Of course the trend-setter was Coco Chanel and while it is believed that she admitted the tan was a mistake from sitting in the sun too long, it was the beginning of a now long-term trend that was picked up by women all over the world who longed for her jet-setter lifestyle. Thanks to the other fashion trends Chanel produced, of looser fitting clothing that exposed more skin, flappers and other fashion forward women were able to tan easily and the lifestyle of hitting the beach was underway. Not long after, the bikini was designed and even more skin was exposed to the ever powerful rays. But, much like the harmful qualities the lead-based white powders inflicted on its users, tanning is also a trend that is not good for ones health.

The fashion and beauty world is not quite ready to give up on this fad. Popular designers with cosmetic lines are eager to sell tinted moisturizers that provide a healthy glow without the UVA/B rays that are cancerous and wrinkle inducing. Designers such as Dior, Michael Kors and, of course, Chanel, offer sunless tanning lotions, keeping the trend alive, making it easier for even those with the palest of skins to be a bronze goddess.

1. ‘The Ermine Portrait’ of Queen Elizabeth I by Nicholas Hilliard, 1585
2. Vogue, 1920s
3. Bondi Beach, Sydney, Australia, 1935
4. Women in Bathing Suits North Africa, 1944
5. Sharon Tate For Coppertone, 1967
6. Chanel Soleil Identité Perfect Colour Face Self-Tanner, 2011

Image Layout: Molly Murphy