Living Vintage. Spring 2012 Couture

Couture is the precious, rare, gem of the fashion empire. It is the foundation of fashion design, coveted for its history, collectibility, and unprecedented elegance. But as the couture industry has reach near obsolescence, the availability of such luxe, paintstakingly hand-constructed garments is limited to those which have been delicately preserved, fighting their way from decade to decade.

Thankfully, although pret-a-porter is the dominating culture of fashion, there are a handful of designers who have clung to their roots, producing soulful couture collections year after year inspired by and geared towards the most elite of fashion’s connoisseurs. This year’s couture season featured the work of just 12 designers, including Dior, Gaultier, Versace and Chanel. While the collections reflect the sensibility of 2012 tones and trends, the references and techniques are rooted staunchly in the past. It is living vintage. Although each collection was a sensation, a few stood out for their impassioned odes to the past:

Valentino

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s sensually ethereal, flowing collection was poignantly inspired by eighteenth century France and the Age of Enlightenment. Although delicate floral patterns and heaps of flowing fabric were dominant themes, the lines remained chic, with Piccioli and Chiuri taking care to remember the body and embrace form within the movement.  Evoking the country quality of ornate French gardens (ie: Versailles) this collection is breathless and effervescent in its lightness, and rich in elegance inspired by royal ingénues.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier’s collection playfully created an exaggerated depiction of the 1950s infused with his couture homage to Amy Winehouse. Sartorially a triumph, his work was attacked by Winehouse’s father, who told the British Sun that it was “in bad taste,” and glamourized “some of the more upsetting times of her life.” Outrageous black bouffants were punctuated by highly stylized suit, skirt and pant combos in bold hues and a cheeky mix of grunge, pop and sequined accents. A powerful tribute reflecting adoration, and not antagonism, this collection is a brilliant addition to Gaultier’s canon.

Giambattista Valli

Valli’s extraordinary, breathtakingly elegant 2012 Couture collection represents the “best of” in atelier couture training, with the designer aiming to translate everything he’d learned as a couturier into one runway show. Austerity is the name of the game here, with Valli incorporating the historical techniques and design sensibility of everyone from Roberto Capucci to the Ungaro atelier where he once trained, peppering his opulent collection with a nod to Ava Gardner’s inspired glamour. Many models seemed nearly sewn in to garments as form-fitting as a corset — hearkening to an age where the female body was truly the canvas and a mold for sartorial sensuality.

Givenchy

This season, Ricardo Tisci emboldened Givenchy with a futuristic Gothic elegance, inspired by his past seven years at the design house, as well as the 1972 film, Metropolis, and 1924’s Aelita: Queen of Mars. This cache of references is perhaps the most poignant reflection on history of the couture collections, marked by brilliant styling and extraordinary design — not the least of which, a crocodile gown that took over 350 hours to make. Tisci modernized the vintage qualities of couture in a way that completely erased contemporary fashion. In the past decade, we’ve rarely seen a designer ignite fashion with such inspiration and ingenuity as to displace the current moment. His bold statement is a gift to us all.

Versace

Tisci was not the only designer inspired by Metropolis, and the allure of old Hollywood glamour this season. Versace’s collection, evoking the power of “warrior women” functions as an army of gilded second skins. One might detect a slight battle between good and evil, with the smooth, reptilian glamour of seductive floor-length gowns battling their corrupt seductress alter egos. Equally as luxe. Equally as sexy. In the glory days of couture, clothing was designed and built to empower femininity — almost weapon-like in its ability to seduce, tempt, and allure. Versace’s references were powerfully on point — a reminder that in moving forward, we must always keep a keen eye fixed on the past.

— Amanda Aldinger

Photos: Style.com

Image Layout: Amy Newling

Vintage: Getting Engraved

The most wonderful thing about vintage jewelry is the story it has to tell. It’s usually been somewhere, survived some sort of event or been gifted in a precious moment that makes it forever unforgettable. I’ve recently become increasingly enamored with engraved jewelry, be it a monogram, a special note or the commemoration of an event, I find such pieces to be utterly charming and unconventionally unique. Even if they are contemporary (which is true of nearly all of the following pieces) they are reminiscent of the distinctive, singular qualities of any treasured vintage item. Undoubtedly ones you’ll have forever. Here’s a few engraved gems I have my eye on.

1. Kate Spade This Is The Year Bangle, $58

This bracelet has stolen my heart. 2011 was a very strange year, and my friend Barbara and I kept saying throughout it, “2011 is the year of this.” “2012 will be the year of this.” It was our mantra. And then Kate Spade produced this gorgeous bangle and it was as if it was personally designed for us. I love its whimsicality and hope. Even though I didn’t engrave it myself, it’s a memento that will last forever.

2. Cathy Waterman Monogram Ring, $4620

I am not a mother, but I absolutely adore this ring. Despite its gorgeous script, the engraving is imperfect enough to make it appear handmade, which is even more special. I love words as accessories, and this is a shining example of a vintage-inspired piece that is individual and distinctive.

3. Anthropologie Victorian Engraved Locket, $1358

There are few jewelry pieces more poignantly vintage than an engraved locket, and this piece from Anthropologie is simply gorgeous. It’s elegant, authentically Victorian, and the unique engraving is a rare treat. A perfect true vintage piece to add to your collection.

4. Kate Spade Hand in Hand Bangle, $58

Yes, I know, back to Kate Spade, but they’re on a roll this season. This gorgeous rose gold bangle which reads “There’s strength in numbers” along the inside and “Hand in Hand” scrolled across the outside is not only a wonderful gift (or reminder for oneself), but 25% of all proceeds will be donated to Women for Women International. Vintage-inspired, and for a wonderful cause. An indubitable win-win.

5. Carla Caruso Signet Ring, $188

Not only is catbird one of my very favorite jewelry boutiques, but I love signet rings. I received a ring with a small “A” on it for Christmas from my mother, and delight in it every time I look at my finger. I love the thickness of this ring and its beautiful script. It’s the perfect engraved gift to give oneself.

— Amanda Aldinger

Vintage: Classically Holiday

The most enriching part of the holiday season is reveling in the classic. Classic films (“It’s A Wonderful Life”), classic traditions (tree decorating, sugar cookies), classic indulgences (eggnog, far too many candy canes — or, if you’re me, seasonal M&M’s). Although inevitably hectic, the holidays are marked by treasured classics that make this time of year particularly special. But of course, one of the most wonderful parts about this season is the clothing: sparkly holiday outfits, layered winter outerwear and wish lists featuring just the right accoutrement to perfect your cold weather wardrobe.  When it comes to my holiday wants, I always harken back to timeless treasures — a nod to vintage influences that have solidified their place in the sartorial cannon. Here are my coveted classics for this holiday season.

1. J.Crew Invitation Clutch In Suede, $118

With all the holiday parties scattered throughout December, a good clutch is a must. Not only is this piece timeless with its envelope shape and gold chain link strap, but it comes in Classic Peony and Tropical Green — a modern reinvisioning of the season’s most iconic color duo.

2. Rachel Roy Feather Print Tie Blouse, Now $244.99

Okay, I know, it’s not uniquely holiday. But it is seasonally relevant, and its whimsical feather print is ideal when paired with the classic shape of this 1950’s inspired blouse. Jazz it up with sparkly accessories, a red lip and your new clutch.  It’s holiday chic with a vintage bohemian twist. Count me in.

3. Kate Spade Crystal Kaleidoscope Bib Necklace, $398

No party look is complete without sparkly costume jewelry. In fact, isn’t that the necessary final touch for any fete-ready outfit? Bejeweled and bedazzled in baubles that say forever fabulous. Happy holidays, indeed.

4. Anthropologie Mixing Paint Shades, $29.95

Although queued fourth here, these incredible sunglasses are the penultimate item on my holiday wish list. They are beautiful, and I imagine that putting them on will make me feel like 1/100^th of how Iris Apfel feels everyday. If that doesn’t say holiday, I don’t know what does.

5. J.Crew Long Leather Gloves, $158

These are the quintessential holiday glamour item: long, luxurious gloves. In burgundy and black they’re positively perfect. Whether you’re accenting or matching, no classic holiday look is complete without delicately cloaked digits. Bring on the cocktails.

— Amanda Aldinger

Image Layout: Amy Newling

Being Vintage: Waxing Poetic About The Bouffant

I love big hair. I have always had big hair, and am notorious for tresses that grow out, not down. The other day I was at a lecture with Simon Doonan, who was speaking about fashion icons. I asked him a question, and he responded with an observation about my hair: referring to it as a bouffant, and synthesizing it with my own existential sense of personal style (his words — not mine. But, happily accepted). He commented about its “vintage quality”, which got me thinking about the notion of vintage and how it can be parlayed into modern concepts of fashion and style. To be very honest, I love a vintage aesthetic but I don’t wear much vintage clothing. I do not enjoy hunting for clothes (oh, how I wish I did!) and I like a wardrobe that is timeless, chic and can be worn seamlessly from day to evening. But my hair has always been my standout feature — the one component of my aesthetic that hearkens to a vintage ideology. Particularly, it shows my deep-rooted love for the 1960s.

So can one have a vintage style, without looking primordially vintage? Absolutely. In my opinion, that’s the most exciting embrace of vintage. As someone who wears a bouffant and red lipstick every single day, I can attest that this integration of my favorite vintage style moments — the carefree, sleekness of the Mod look, paired with very clean makeup and an exaggerated pop — has been the most resounding discovery of my own journey with fashion and style.

As I watch trends move in and out of the contemporary fashion world, comparing them to moments past, I’m delighted when a designer or an editorial commits to exploding a look from the top, especially with a bouffant. The bouffant was the highlight of Jean Paul Gaultier’s FW/11 collection, piled sky-high atop the models’ heads and often tinted a vibrant, austere gray. Back in 2008, designer Limi Feu sent her models onto the runway with hair that was a sensational fusion of ‘90s grunge and a ‘60s bouffant — a combination I find wildly successful.

The bouffant has also been a celebrity street style moment: Chanel Iman and Sarah Jessica Parker were both recently captured sporting radically different, but equally inspired bouffants. Chanel’s immaculate and sleek version was piled and poufed on top of her head — a gleaming vision in noir. SJP’s bouffant was markedly different, achieving impressive verticality and flanked by heaps of luscious, teased curls.

The bouffant is often even the subject of entire editorials! Style. Magnet Magazine recently dedicated a multi-page spread to the bouffant’s heightened wonder. Teased, tousled and gloriously messy, the various styling techniques speak to its inherent versatility. The bouffant is a classic, perfectly translated.

Vintage is not just about clothing. It’s about a feeling, an aesthetic and the interpretation of a moment past in what now lives as the present. For me, vintage wear is shellacked into a dome five inches from my scalp. What’s your bouffant?

Photos:
1. Jean Paul Gaultier FW 2011, Style.com
2. Limi Feu SS 2008, Style.com
3. Chanel Iman, Refinery29
4. Sarah Jessica Parker, Refinery29
5. Editorial, Style. Magnet

— Amanda Aldinger

Image Layout: Amy Newling

Betasseled: 5 Vintage Tassels To Inspire Your Accessorizing

I didn’t know how much I loved tassels until recently. When I was in Paris last summer, I purchased a giant mustard yellow tassel from the l’Institut du Monde Arabe that sat in my bedroom for a solid six months until I decided to put it on a chain and wear it as a necklace. It has not only become my favorite accessory, but a true conversation starter — inspiring wonder and awe about the giant object around my neck in nearly everyone I meet. Once that tassel changed my life, I decided that I would fill my life with tasseled odds and ends, hallmarking an object most widely recognized as a drapery ornament and turning it into my signature accessory. I firmly believe the tassel can change the lives of others, as well, so I’ve embarked on a vintage eBay hunt for the best vintage tasseled accessory — a search that did not end in vain. Behold: five great tassels and why they should inspire your accessorizing.

1. Dominique Aurientis Vintage Gold Tassel Necklace: Let’s be honest, it pretty much speaks for itself. This luxe beauty conjures images of Egyptian royalty and 1920s high glamour at the same time – it’s absolutely stunning. It’s also extremely versatile when it comes to styling: wear the tassel straight down to highlight the asymmetrical green pearl, wrap it around your neck (or wrist!) to obtain more of a choker appeal, or wear the tassel to the side, like in the photo. No matter how you wear it, it’s definitely a stunner — every accessory collection should include thick, rich gold (and a tassel!)

2.Vintage Hermès Golf Shoes: I just about fell over when I saw these darling be-tasseled loafers. I love the whimsy inspired by the grass green fringe and matching double tassels and who doesn’t love a classic loafer? This is a great way to bring tassels into your wardrobe — with vintage Hermès on your feet, you’ll be skipping all day.

3. Leopard Head Vintage Zircon Necklace: Tassels are great for when you visually want to shake things up a bit, but so is anything inspired by an exotic animal. You put those two things together and you’re looking at a seriously amazing necklace. The lines with this piece are so simple, but it’s the proportions that really set it apart. The leopard head’s unique placement, combined with the thin fringe and elongation of the tassel work together to create a truly gorgeous piece.

4. Vintage Marbled Bakelite Necklace: I’m always on the lookout for a good statement necklace and this one grabbed me right away. I love how the tassel is in the center of the piece, and both the ball’s marbling and its ornate gold cap are divine. An entirely unique look, you could get away with wearing this necklace and very little else — all tassels should inspire as much.

5. Estee Lauder Vintage Compact: I was just delighted when I found this little treasure. First of all, a gorgeously designed compact is such a treat to pull out, but when it also has a tassel! Then you just look like French royalty. The tenets of accessorizing should be parlayed into more than just what you put on your body. A fabulous compact like this one is the very embodiment of the art of chic — it’s all in the details.

— Amanda Aldinger

Image Layout: Amy Newling

Modernizing Classics: The Best Vintage-Inspired Shoes for Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week has finally arrived, and although attendees everywhere have most likely been planning their wardrobe for weeks, we all know that a killer Fashion Week outfit is grounded in one thing: the shoes. No one’s asking you to be Anna Della Russo, here. But if you want to get snapped by all those street style photographer lurking around Lincoln Center, it’s got to be good from head-to-toe. No matter your style, Fashion Week is a great opportunity to break out some vintage wares and highlight your ensemble with obscure pieces destined to turn heads. Plus, when asked where you got something, it’s always nice to be able to say, “Oh, that? That’s vintage.” (Perhaps you’re one of those people who responds with that no matter what — that’s okay, too.)

Good vintage requires a hunt, so if you don’t have the time, check out these vintage (inspired) shoes, that will give your look the Hipstamatic edge even if you’re on a time crunch. (You can say they’re vintage — we won’t tell.)

1. Marni Perforated Mary Jane, $650

An eternal classic, the Mary Jane is the chic, 1950s-inspired go-to for any woman. But if you’re aiming to infuse your vintage favorite with a bit of oomph, Marni’s option is the ideal choice. The ultimate shoe du jour for every season, the three layers of stacked heels are built in classic, neutral colors that will complement any outfit. After prancing around Fashion Week in these showstopper heels, you’ll never go back to the classic Mary Jane again.

2.Yves Saint Laurent ‘Palais’ Passementerie Peep Toe Bootie,  $895

When it comes to heels, no one glams up the classics like YSL. Known for their Tribute heel, which features a gorgeous stacked platform and an ever-increasing stiletto heel, this heightened oxford screams 1970s glamour. The curve of the heel and delicate tasseled laces modernize its look ever so slightly, making the pump at once both timeless and refreshingly of the moment.

3.Giambatista Valli Double Platform Pump, $935

“1950s pinup with an edge” is exactly what I thought when I first spied these gorgeous Giambatista Valli pumps. They’re sweet, with their perforated, pink flower detailing, but are punctuated with edgy details which are modern and refreshing. The spiked heel and slightly raised toe harden its edges to rejuvenate its 50s-inspired shape and throw it into the twenty-first century. Sugar and spice — always the best combo. Especially on your feet.

4. Lanvin Laser-Heel Ankle-Wrap Pump, $1348

Alber Elbaz can harden a clean line better than anyone, and these sensational heels are a prime example. He takes a delicate stiletto, and the even more delicate concept of an ankle strap, and jacks it up with gold grommets, double straps and buckles. It’s like vintage S&M for your feet — ideal for Fashion Week (and everywhere else).

5. Nicholas Kirkwood Suede & Metallic Loafer Pump, $995
This is my favorite modernization of the classic, because Nicholas Kirkwood does it in a way that truly speaks to the contemporary moment. Evolving the oxford with both fuchsia metallics and a stacked platform, these heels are the ultimate vintage-inspired crowd pleaser. You may not be able to say they’re vintage, but you can say they’re Nicholas Kirkwood. And that’s good enough.

— Amanda Aldinger

Vintage: Finding Fall 2011 Leather Trends From The Past

As you have probably noticed, one of the top Fall 2011 RTW trends is leather. We saw a variety of this shiny luxury skin in black and other natural shades (browns, clay, caramel, cognac) with various textures and in many shapes at NY Fashion Week last February. From long flowey trench coats to slim cropped pants, leather made its mark on practically every runway. Many of the new shapes for fall 2011 were reminiscent of days gone by, mostly from the 70s and 80s.

You can incorporate these looks into your fall wardrobe without spending a fortune with vintage leather finds. There is a lot of what I will call “recent vintage” leather apparel which is easy to find at thrift shops, your mother’s closet, or maybe even your own closet! Although not technically considered vintage, a lot of these leather looks can be found from the 90s.

Look for the right shapes and proportions and you will appear as if you walked right off the runway. Don’t overload on vintage leather by wearing more than one item at a time. One leather item put together with new wardrobe pieces will make you look totally on-trend for Fall 2011.

1. Marc Jacobs Fall 2011 RTW Leather Pencil Skirt
Vintage Version: Dark Brown Reptile Print Long Leather Skirt, 1980s or 1990s $45

2. Nanette Lepore Fall 2011 RTW Full Leather Skirt
Vintage Version: Smooth Leather Straight Lined Long Skirt, 1980s, now $29.99

3. Ralph Lauren Fall 2011 RTW Long Leather Trench Coat
Vintage Version: Fitted Black Leather Women Coat Jacket, 1970s, $79.12

4. Jill Stuart Fall 2011 RTW Clay Red Leather Pants
Vintage Version: Red Leather Tapered Peg Leg Trouser Pants, 1980s or 1990s, $33.06

 Runway Photos: NYMag

—Carol Calacci

Vintage: It Doesn’t Have To Be Frou Frou

Look who’s talking, huh? I’m the woman who wears poofy crinolines under my floral violet dresses, and I know that it’s something that can put off a lot of people especially if they want an edgier look. There are some things that always work to accomplish this. And some of them just look better when they are older and even better when they are good vintage pieces.

Leather Jackets – There’s something amazing about aged leather, isn’t there? Whether you go for a tailored blazer or a biker jacket, leather has an edge to it. Wear a vintage leather jacket with anything and you’ll show that not only you know the value of good quality leather, but that you go for classic but still edgy items. Stick with black or tan to make sure you don’t scream a decade.

Necklaces – Pile them on and you’ve got the start of something good. Put lots on in different lengths to add an extra dimension to a simple outfit. Vintage necklaces are great because you can get unique pieces and not have to spend a huge amount of money.

Band T-shirts – Some can be very expensive (think rare or extremely popular bands), but they definitely look better the more worn and faded they are. For a easy fix get a small man’s size and cut off the sleeves. That way you can get both raw edges and the faded print.

Pictured:
Set of Five Thin Liquid Silver Chokers, 1980s $20
Vintage Michael Jackson Thriller T-shirt $30

—Angel Cutsforth

Why “Vintage” Isn’t Cool Anymore, But I’ll Keep Wearing It

This article is slightly different from my usual vintage shopping column, but one that I think real fashion lovers will appreciate. For a few years now everything it seems has been vintage, vintage inspired or retro. It’s gotten to the point where “oh yeah, it’s vintage” is the only acceptable reply to “I love your coat/dress/necklace.”

For instance, take a look at red carpet fashion. Every single run-down of what the women wore will include at least one mention of the word vintage, whether it’s the Golden Globes, the Oscars or the Emmy’s. There are actresses that you expect to see wearing vintage like Renee Zelweger, Maggie Gyllenhall and Sarah Jessica Parker, and they usually do it well. But when the Olsen twins showed up to the Met Costume Gala in two severely ugly dresses (Mary-Kate’s is a 1970′s Givenchy Haute Couture creation, and Ashley’s is a 1980′s Dior dress), the fact that they are vintage doesn’t save them.

Vintage has always been around. That’s the whole point of true vintage clothing; reusing and celebrating beautiful things from past eras. But as it became trendy and ever since clothing stores started to describe their clothes as vintage, the trend had erased what true vintage lovers knew as vintage. Put in its place are new dresses from Forever 21 or H&M, which are too short for a true retro look or some old clothes that someone has decided to call “vintage” rather than second-hand. The lines have become blurred.

Vintage became popular because women wanted to wear unique clothes that were well made and didn’t break the bank. Well, the price of vintage has skyrocketed and mass made, poorly tailored and sewn together apparel are being branded as vintage-inspired.

So “vintage” even if it’s not true vintage has become so popular that it’s lost it’s cool factor. Everyone is wearing it, so it’s lost its uniqueness, right? I believe it really hasn’t, and that’s why I’ll keep wearing the beautiful vintage clothes that hang in my wardrobe, because even if the whole concept has lost it’s originality, the clothes themselves are pretty much one-off, and I feel amazing in them.

—Angel Cutsforth

Photos: (left) Mary-Kate Olsen, Larry Busacca/Getty Images; (right) Ashley Olsen, Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images

Vintage Wedding Dresses For Would-Be Princesses

I know everyone has covered the Royal Wedding and the dress, and quite rightly the comparison between Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge’s dress and Princess Grace of Monaco’s. This comparison has led to a lot of women starting to look for vintage wedding dresses that bring a touch on old school glamour to your special day.

1920s Flapper Tambour Lace Dress, $349

While this 1920′s dress probably wasn’t a wedding dress originally, I can image this dress at a more laid back wedding with the bride having feathers in her hair and long beads circling her neck. It’s a beautiful way to gain the flapper look.

1930s Liquid Satin Wedding Gown with Peplum and Long Train, $148

This gorgeous dress even has a train! While it isn’t in perfect condition it’s price is hard to ignore. Imagine a long veil with this and the train flowing behind the bride as she walks down the aisle whether its held or not.

40s Lilli Ann Suit Dress Yellow Rayon, $425

Because of rationing either older dresses where reused or women got married in suits, nowadays this is perfect for a second marriage or even a small intimate affair. No veil, just a perfectly placed hair pin.

1950s Tea Length Lace Wedding Gown, $246

This is the perfect decade to look to for tea length dresses, which for a modern beach wedding (or the afterparty at a wild wedding) are a great choice, they don’t drag on the floor and you get to show off your shoes. This dress even has lace overlay and lace sleeves if you want to take inspiration from the royal wedding recently.

1960′s White Mini Wedding Dress Classic Go Go Sequins Mod Club Cabaret Party Mini Dress, $175

Mini, Mini, Mini! Show off lots of leg and dance the night away in a mod mini wedding dress. Would be perfect for a modern wedding if you where planning on going out on the town with your wedding party after the reception ends, the sequins will make sure all eyes are on the bride.

70s Ivory Chiffon Goddess Wedding Prom Dress with Huge Pleated Angel Sleeves and Rhinstone Lace Collar, $349

Definitely a look for the bohemian bride. A full length, flowy gown like this would be great especially if worn with flowers in the hair and the wedding was outdoors. I can imagine the flower girls in similar dresses and the bridesmaids in other maxi dresses.

—Angel Cutsforth