Joanne Molina
In a world of celebrity designers and public relations campaigns designed to promote sales instead of substance, Ann-Sophie Back is a breath of fresh air. Candid, cheeky and confident that her designs speak for themselves, the Swedish-born avant-garde designer isn’t looking for fans but people who will actually pay attention to what she’s doing and what she’s thinking. Ideas are what drive this international icon known for her dissonant dresses and substantive silhouettes — but not to fear, she’s not above a good laugh and the necessary amount of sarcasm.
SCS: How do you think growing up in a suburb of Stockholm influenced you? Do you think you would be designing differently if you grew up in London, where currently live?
ASB: I’m very affected by my Swedish upbringing. My problems with taking fashion seriously mixed with my problems with the beauty ideals of today and the way women are portrayed in the media. I’m very middle class, like almost all Swedes and I don’t see the point in glorifying the working classes like they do here. Sweden is at least on the surface a very equal society and that greatly affects the way I look at fashion.
SCS: What were your key inspirations when you started out? Have they changed?
ASB: I don’t think they have changed that much, it’s more that I get increasingly aware of my motives. But also the more aware I get of my "agenda" the more I can ignore it and appreciate fashion for simply being beautiful (and sometimes vacuous) without having to question it. Sometimes that disappoints me and sometimes it’s a relief.
SCS: How have your collections evolved?
ASB: I think I’m a lot more aware of the wearer these days; I’m more forgiving and understanding of their actual needs. I also realize and appreciate most people just want to be told what’s right and aren’t interested in the idea behind the garment. And maybe they are right in thinking this, if it’s good, it’s good!
SCS: If you could come back as a piece of clothing what would it be?
ASB: I don’t believe in reincarnation. I’m a pair of pear shaped leather trousers now and I have no chance in hell to come back as a pair of Prada shoes.
SCS: So many people say they want something unique and exquisite—in the past you’ve said you find your inspiration in the banal… can you discuss what you mean by this?
ASB: I’m inspired by the banal, clichés, my own prejudice, the discrepancies in how we perceive ourselves and how we are perceived by others. I know that when I feel slightly embarrassed I’m onto something. Things, places and people that on the surface appear interesting, spectacular and mysterious usually aren’t. Also many people might say they want something unique and exquisite but usually they don’t.
SCS: Why fashion?
ASB: My main concern is not form and colour and it certainly isn’t the body. I work with ideas that hopefully can be turned into clothes, however these days I kill the idea if it doesn’t work as a garment whereas before the idea was more important and I sometimes forced it. The reason I work with fashion is probably because I can’t take myself serious enough to be an artist and I’m not intellectual enough either. Also I do find fashion the most important artform, you can’t ignore it, everyone has to relate to it whether they like it or not, it is also the most difficult, people buy clothes because they believe they will improve their lives, which is a huge responsibility and at the same time people pretend to be laughing at fashion and say its superficial.
SCS: Do you deconstruct clothing or would you describe it in another way...I am thinking of your dresses and how you can really push our idea of what a dress is and what it should do...what do you think? Also, parts of the body that are overlooked, like a woman’s knee...
ASB: Yes I agree sometimes I work with deconstruction, which seems terribly unfashionable these days. However I don’t think of it as deconstruction, it is a way of thinking that is so deeply ingrained I don’t reflect over it.
SCS: What do you think the role of pleasure should be in design?
ASB: Well being Swedish and a true believer in “Jante’s law" I’m not one to expect pleasure.
SCS: Do you think there is a relationship between politics and fashion? What are your thoughts about consumerism, the environment?
ASB: I feel disgusted about consumerism and I feel disgusted with the way people are shopping like there’s no tomorrow. My only defense to be adding to the pile is that my clothes aren’t trend led as much and therefore can be worn longer. And that is pretty lame.
SCS: How would you define taste? Is it important? Do you ever fear you’ll lose your edge?
ASB: I can’t define taste, it’s not something I stay up at night to ponder exactly, my upbringing wasn’t tasteful, I don’t admire people with so called taste. I’ll sell truckloads if I lost my edge, I don’t fear it I can’t wait!
SCS: What is beauty to you?
ASB: Like taste, I’m not pre-occupied with beauty, when I’m designing what I consciously think about is more things like “would this make someone’s bum look big, will it feel like the tits fall out, is this jersey soft enough, not beauty as such, that’s a sort of given but I don’t consciously consider it.
SCS: Where do you see the future of fashion?
ASB: I think it will eventually slow down a bit. I think people will loose interest in Britney Spears showing her fanny. Eventually. Hopefully.
SCS: What will we never find in your closet?
ASB: Navy.
SCS: What’s next? What can we look forward to from Ann-Sophie Back?
ASB: Nothing much, reluctantly I’m going to be a bridesmaid in a crème silk dress!
