Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall ’12. Badgley Mischka’s Ghoulish Glamazons

Fountain of 30

February 15, 2012 • Fashion Blog, Fashion Shows, New York Fashion Week Fall '12

Summary: Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka chose to shake things up a bit for their Fall ’12 Badgley Mischka collection, combining their traditional Badgley Mischka line with their Mark + James and Couture collection of  “day wear” (“day wear” being in quotes since the separates were just as luxe as the gowns in most cases). There’s no doubt about it, people expect an array of showstopping glamour at the Badgley Mischka show, two age-old kings of the red carpet. And despite the two separate lines on the runway, the show ran seamlessly along the same thread. The mood was definitely darker this season, made more apparent by the macabre, sort of Tim Burton styling to the hair and makeup. But even ghouls get to be glam as the designers used their melancholy undertones to trot out romantic looks in luxurious fabrics. Chiffon, organza and lame rippled down the runway, reflecting the stage’s backdrop of softly falling snow on Central Park. Metallic tweeds early on made way for the glistening brocades, sequins and beading that are the men’s bread and butter.

The only real nods to more casual wear were in the lame pajama set, the occasional grey flannel pant and even one sighting of (gasp!) denim. But again, the lineup did not seem stunted as a gown mixed itself in with a shearling coat. When they weren’t heavily embellished, the dresses were simple and elegant in their draping. Fur stoles in fox and mink added a bit of texture here and there and velvet and lace provided dimension to the mostly matte jersey gowns. As a huge fan of dark and brooding glamour, I personally loved the “Corpse Bride” undertones of the show, as if a Victorian stateswoman had died of a broken heart and come back to life to wreak revenge. The only thing I would have liked to see was maybe a little more color—the soft washes of rose and teal were subtle enough to stay in step with the show’s theme but I feel like they could have been explored even further.

Color Palette: gold, black,  jet, antique gold, moss, bronze, metallic, pewter, mahogany, brass, thistle, iron, arrowhead, grey, navy, midnight, teal, emerald, platinum, tortora sable, gold tulle, silver, smoke, mist, rose, argent, port plaid

Fabrics and Textures: tweed, paillette, lame, crepe, plexi, matte jersey, leather, scuba jersey, hammered satin net, sequin, fretwork jersey, mink, wool felt, chiffon, rib jersey, lurex, tulle, organza, brocade, denim, velvet, flannel, shearling, foiled crepe, georgette, sequin, satin chiffon, lame brocade, crystal, winter fox

Key Looks: Black Crepe & Plexi Dress, Teal Hammered Satin Dress, Black Felt & Metallic Tweed Jacket, Metallic Sequin & Chiffon Top, Pewter Tweed Pant, Antique Gold Pajama Top, Arrowhead Brocade Coat, Navy/Black Brocade Stripe Officer’s Jacket, Bronze Sequin Chiffon & Tulle Skirt, Smoke/Port Plaid Taffeta Gown, Silver Fox & Jet Shrug, Jet Matte Jersey & Sequin Gown, Rose Hammered Satin Gown

—Alia Rajput

Photos: NYMag

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