If you had happened to glance at the headline of any New York Fashion Week runway show last week, chances are the look that was being featured for Spring ’14 was represented in black and white. Amiright? So heavy were the B + W looks in this season’s collections, one would have sworn the entire was being shown through some sort of antiquated, film noir Instagram filter. So call me old-fashioned but I jumped — literally, whooped — for joy when Lela Rose brought us back to present day with a fresh and lively collection that, ironically, payed homage to mid 20th century Danish designer Arne Jacobsen. Made famous for his still prevalent Egg and Dove Chair designs, Jacobsen was a tour de force in architectural Functionalism, especially in the post-war industry boom of the 50’s and 60’s. Rose’s interpretation of Jacobsen’s legacy focused on his imagination, whimsy, and ability to push the envelope between form and function.
Clean lines paid a crucial part in the collection, though never boring and — thank goodness — only sparingly in black and white. Graphic prints abounded on tailored jackets, pencil skirts, and slim-cut sheaths. Boxy tops were paired with narrow bottoms and vice versa, playing off the reoccurring theme of form and space. The delicate, water color palette that’s often a signature element in her collections was punched up with citrine green and shocks of orange, and she tacked on a few very cool 3D-like embellishments that resembled cubes on drafting paper.
The final looks included Rose’s specialty of ethereal, fairy-like gowns, though this season’s crop was anchored in the structural components of architectural design. The stiff curve of a sculpted bodice on her electric green peplum gown, and the hi-lo hemline of her geometric ball gown skirt elevated the evening looks from elegant to all-out editorial. And for those who looked closely, you could see Ted Gibson’s golden flakes floating down from the models’ hair as they walked, adding to the enchantment of the presentation.
Photo Source: NYMag, Second City Style