New York Fashion Week Spring ’10. Alexandre Herchcovitch: I Know Why the Caged Skirt Blings

Fountain of 30

September 16, 2009 • New York Fashion Week Spring '10
















Summary: Maybe the head in front of me obscured my view of the models' hands, or maybe I dismissed the footballs they carried down the runway as clutches, but it wasn't until Alexandre Herchovitch's show was over that I discovered he was inspired by football. I thought it was a futuristic theme, with the progression of outfits representing the passing of (future) time: shiny silver dresses giving way to rubber ones until finally we arrived at caged garments that are wild, protective and unlike anything we'd ever known

But it was about football. Oops.

Even knowing this, I am wholeheartedly enamored with the collection. The first satin pieces—from skinny black satin pants to silver mini-dresses to brightly-colored, zip-front frocks—are on-trend while being a little zingier, more interesting. And although admittedly, I am willing to be a more adventurous dresser than most, I would have no compunction about wearing the rubber pieces reminiscent of a Laugh In episode. From here, the pattern-pairings get a little more intense, with Herchcovitch introducing a print resembling the bricks in an early Super Mario Brothers game, and putting it alongside a multi-color pattern. But the faint-of-heart could easily dissect the pieces and re-imagine them with tamer separates.

At show's end, models saunter down the runway with partially exposed cages creating exaggerated shoulders and bubble skirts. Yes, if we must be dogmatic about the whole "ready to wear" issue, some of the latter pieces seem more appropriate for a museum than a runway. Still, I can't help but fawn over these bold pieces that, in a subdued season, let us be a little bit wild.

Color Palette: Nude, silver, pink, mauve, light blue-gray, fuchsia, orange, green, violet-blue, black

Fabrics & Textures: Silk, satin, mesh, rubber

Key Looks: Short-sleeved silver mini-dress; black satin pants with black satin and mesh top; orange zip-front dress with ruched sleeves; black mesh striped top with cage skirt

—Becky Ellis

Photos: NY Mag

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