Maybe it’s because he’s sold a million handbags, but Marc Jacobs has been the most daring, innovative and expressive collection I’ve seen thus far. And for those of you who think it’s ass-backwards, you may be right: First jacobs walked out and took a bow, then he showed evening wear, then formal and then daywear. Love it.
Indeed, Rehab was good for Marc Jacobs and so was whatever he saw or heard about the Paris couture collections, which he managed to whittle down to their essence and then explode again for his RTW line. Somewhere between some expressionist Felliniesque landscape and a surreal Jacques Demy musical turned inside out we find a very happy marc jacobs playing a lire in a courtyard — and making us dance.
The genius here is that for the first time in a long time someone has actually asked garments to do something different for us. Sheer pants work under dresses or fly solo, flower appliques cascade down dresses and blouses and literally look as if they ought to be touched, experience and breathed in.
But the dimension is really evident in the way he uses layers of fabric to add depth and movement to an otherwise snoozeworthy silhouette. And as if he couldn’t decide what the hemline should be this year, he literally used one skirt as an opportunity to cut into the hemline, emphasizing the geometry. Like many of his colleagues, Jacobs employed the Roman-inspired toga to add more dimension; taking it apart at the sides and maximizing it’s effect for drape and flow — especially work over the shorts. And of course there are the sequins. What can I say, while I can’t see the suburban moms gearing up to buy these dresses I would hope that it gives the shopper pause and maybe even evoke a moment of thought: who says I can’t wear this?
Odd, almost surreal accessories including cardboard eyes (I wonder whose eyes?) worn on the head, strange circles and strange little black odds and ends almost act as punctuation marks for each ensemble. The most interesting details are his gloves– in red, yellow, black and even a polka dot pattern are worn as if to say away with your expectations (and admittedly a little odd for spring) and what appear to be sheer boots/booties are equally daring for a spring show.
Sure, there are the appearance of more retail-friendly pieces like linen ensembles in taupe and mauve, complete with sweet little capes and shorts. Black pieces, including a giant lace cape sometimes make the collection more autumn-esque than an ode to spring.
I guess what really hit me is that given its ambivalence. I mean, it’s so far afield he could just be f***ing with us— and what makes the collection great is that I wouldn’t really mind.
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